Week 18-20 2019 Norway South coast to Shetland
29 April 19 May 2019 452 nm
Week 18 29 April – 5 May 2019 Verdens Ende – Lillesand/Skaugeröya 103 nm
29 April Monday Verdens Ende – Svenners Lighthouse 11 nm
We left the wharf already before eight to take advantage of the little breeze during the morning. Halfway to Svenner we had to engage the engine due to no wind.
The lighthouse and its islands ten miles offshore is tricky to get in to, but in no swell and no wind condition it’s easy.
Saw one boat leaving the islands, but when we arrived there were no boats at all.
The little harbour is really small and there is only one place to more Moon to the mountainside. Three ropes hanging down from bolts high up on the steep cliff made it possible to tie Moon to the cliff and then use them to climb the three meter, almost vertical, high rock.
Due to early arrival we toured the main island before lunch. Lots of seagulls, geese and eiders.
We disturbed some eiders and they flew up from their nests, with one to five eggs in the nests. Luckily no seagulls seemed to be interested of the nests. Some (more experienced?) eiders stayed on their eggs in spite the marked trail and we passed pretty close.
Returning to Moon we visited the lighthouse to get the view to the sea and over Moon down in the harbour.
Had lunch and in the afternoon came a little powerboat. The guy asked if we wanted some crabs. Of course, and that made our dinner. Very nice people here in Norway!
In the evening, when we were lazy in front of a movie, somebody knocked on the hull. To our surprise the custom’s boat was next to Moon, in spite the time was well after nine o’clock.
They came on board and asked, very friendly and polite, if we had anything to declare.
We told them that no tobacco and only “house hold amounts” of wine and spirit.
(To Norway you are only allowed to bring one litre of spirit and one litre of wine per person)
After some talking about our adventures, which made them very curious, they asked if they could look into the boat. Annika showed them our liqueur locker, and they seemed pleased with the numbers
They opened a few other lockers and then thanked us for letting them have us in their statistic! Before leaving they asked if we seen boats passing the border from Sweden.
Giving the amount of boats out this time of the year, almost everyone have a great chance of being checked!
30 April Tuesday Svenner – Sandöya, close to Brevik 17 nm
Departure before any wind or swell had time to build, to make our departure as safe and simple as arriving yesterday. Offshore a light easterly breeze was blowing and we hoisted all sails.
Flat sea and ten knots of wind gave us six knots. We do have a bit of slime on the hull.
Breakfast under way.
Again the wind disappeared half way and we furled the headsails. The main came down an hour later when we were heading into the fjord and against apparent wind, making it easier to fold the main into the stack pack.
We were now to visit friends we met in Malaysia when they left their Malö next to us where we were repairing Moon on the hard.
We had been given coordinates and a photo where to more Moon, so in spite of a very small harbour, it was easy to enter and more, prepared as we were with fenders and lines in right places (and height).
There were quite a current in front of the entrance due to the river flow from the mountains. The water temperature was four degrees colder than off shore!
Had lunch and then took a long walk around the village and up in the forest. The spring has come a long way in this summer temperature!
Had a shower when back in Moon and we were just done when Kåre and Lillian came with the ferry from the mainland. They live in not far away town Sandefjord, but have Kilico, (their Malö 39), and a summerhouse on the island. They brought Kilico back by ship to Rotterdam after three years on the hard in Malaysia after having “followed our footsteps” down through Patagonia and then across to NZ before they came to Malaysia, not having decided how to continue.
After some chatting in the boat we brought everything they carried around the harbour and up to their little house. Situated high above the harbour on a peninsula pointing south along the fjord it had the most amazing view. 330 degrees free view with no houses, except for those you could see down below across water. Due south along the fjord we could see the horizon.
We had a pleasant evening with Norwegian prawns and a nice wine.
1 May Wednesday Sandöya
Sunshine and breakfast in cockpit.
Lilliad and Kåre came for coffee at ten. We took a long walk together using some trails between houses we didn’t dare to use yesterday. But with two “locals” who knew the accepted shortcuts it was no problem. Used a small pedestrian bridge across to the next island with more or less only summerhouses.
Back on Sandöya we had lunch up in the summerhouse, again admiring their view. We then left them to prepare for their return late afternoon to Sandefjord and work tomorrow.
Back in Moon we tried to find a small leak in our heating system with limited success.
Prepared for departure early tomorrow filling drinking water and getting rid of garbage.
2 May Thursday Sandöya – Risör 29 nm
Rain and some wind during night.
Woke up to rain and a dark sky, but with a brighter horizon to windward.
After breakfast the clouds disappeared and we could cast our lines in clear sunshine.
Used the current out of the fjord in almost no wind condition. Coming out at sea the wind increased and we had a good sail for an hour before we came into narrow archipelago where the gusty wind became even more erratic.
Before noon we got black clouds inshore. Planned to anchor and wait out the rain, but the anchorage we tried was to deep and therefore to narrow. Decided to continue in spite of the rain.
The first rain was light and with no squall, but the second one
Because of vey light wind we had full sails and that was of course a challenge when we were hit by almost forty knots coming down from a very black cloud together with hail. Moon was almost down to the cap rail before we could bring her around to get the wind across the stern. Furled the Yankee and “flew” away running in more than eight knots using only a full main.
Half an hour later we could retrieve our course to Risör, where we arrived before three o’clock.
Electricity on the pontoon but no water and no charge is a good option, especially as we were prepared with full tanks of water.
Took a long walk and bought some groceries before we made dinner in Moon.
Eating out in Norway is not included in our budget. There were several restaurants waiting for guests, but prices and off season did not bring many
3 May Friday Risör – Arendal 23 nm
Sunshine but very cold when we woke up. Nice with electricity on the pontoon and thermostat regulated heating in Moon’s water heating system. Got going after breakfast using a spring line due to wind against the pontoon.
Only headsails and the engine running due to very shifting wind conditions, mostly from ahead.
After noon we again got dark clouds coming out from shore. Snow and hail with bitterly cold wind, luckily not as strong as yesterday. But today we had learned the lesson and only used headsails to be prepared. Hot rosehip soup and a cheese sandwich became lunch at the wheel.
Moored in Arendal marina where Ally and Wayne from Blue Heeler took our lines.
Had a hot spicy reed wine together and talked about our experiences during the winter. We as volunteers in community service (Björn’s mother), and they about wintering in Flensburg, flooded by three meters of river water.
Paid harbour fee including showers, electricity and washing machine. Not cheep but still winter price.
Ally cooked salmon which was served down in Blue Heeler. A nice get together and of course lots of talking about life as full time cruisers.
4 May Saturday Arendal – Merdö 3 nm
Sunshine and cold with no wind when we woke up.
The hail and snow yesterday was now forgotten and it looked like summer again. After breakfast we said bye to Ally and Wayne as they “drifted” south towards Kristiansand. Our rough plans overlaps and we will sure meet again on our route before our plans (right now) to winter in Spain or Portugal.
Put the laundry in motion and when the dryer was on we went for a walk around the town. Some exercise and some shopping were on the agenda. Coming back to Moon with groceries and laundry it was time for the showers. Two o’clock we were done and left Arendal for an anchorage closer to sea.
Anchored in leeward of an island, but the weather didn’t invite us to do a shore trip.
5 May Sunday Merdö – Lillesand – Skauteröya 18+2 nm
Wind system govern our departure every day. Mornings we have had wind from north until around noon, shifting to west or south west. As we are heading south west we have headwinds after noon.
This made us have an early start as usual to get as many hours as possible with the northerly. Already half past seven we were on the run, having breakfast under way. We got three hours nice sailing across fjords and in between islands. When the wind shift came we had still an hour to Lillesand.
We used the engine and moored in the guest harbour just before noon. Planned initially to stay for a day or two because of coming bad weather.
But after lunch and a long walk we decided to move out to an anchorage instead. Much more scenic and comfortable, except for no shore power
The price policy in Lillesand, almost full summer price, made a contribution to the decision to leave.
Just south of Lillesand, along the inlet to town, we found a close to perfect anchorage. Although little to narrow, we had to use our anchor buddy on the chain to minimize the scoop.
Our diesel/pump problem last weeks seems to be possible to put in our experience bank. No problem what so ever to fill the day tank with clean filtered diesel, except that the main tank soon is empty!
Week 19 6 – 13 May 2019 Lillesand/Skageröya – Mandal 34 nm
6 May Monday Lillesand/Skageröya – Kristiansand 18 nm
Quiet but cold night. Sunshine when we woke up. Started the furnace to warm up the boat and cook breakfast. Just above 12 degrees is a bit too cold to be comfortable during breakfast!
We launched the dinghy after breakfast to take a walk around the island. Very nice with a more or less prepared trail. We have been walking without marked trails on many islands and have had to reverse due to dense vegetation or too steep cliffs. This was very comfortable and we could concentrate on the views, birds and flowers.
Nice sunshine and temperature almost all the way, but we got some drizzle shortly before we reach the dinghy. Some very dark clouds were approaching as we came back to Moon and just minutes later we had hail.
Had lunch in a dark boat while rain and hail was pouring down for a half hour. After noon it became brighter, but still overcastted rest of the day.
During the afternoon we got a new weather forecast, predicting stronger westerly tomorrow.
Decided quickly to do the three hours trip to Kristiansand in little wind in spite the time was almost four. The alternative to stay on anchor for another two days was not so attractive; we had already walked the island!
Weigh anchor shortly before four and drove out to sea.
Moon has a too high mast to be able to pass the bridge in Blindleia, the inshore route in between numerous of islands, so unfortunately we had to sail/motor just outside the islands exposed to the swell. We managed to reach Kristiansand almost without any rain, but some gusts were very cold
Shortly before seven Ally and Wayne from Blue Heeler took our lines on the dock in Kristiansand.
Moon was comfortable warm downstairs thanks to running the engine for three hours, but still it was nice to hook up 220 AC to have thermostat regulated heating in Moon.
Having AC we also ran the dehumidifier during the night. Very good to be able to minimize condensation, which can be a problem during these cold nights.
7 May Tuesday Kristiansand
Sunshine and not so much wind when we woke up. With central heating we have comfortable 19 degrees in the saloon when we have our breakfast. The predicted strong wind came before noon. Moon was moored bow against the wind and we had no discomfort due to the wind.
After noon we and Ally took the bus from centre to a Mall a bit out of town.
We needed a new Wifi antenna. Our old one didn’t coop with 4 and 5G. We managed to do all our shopping in time to be able to have a free return.
Back in Moon we had dinner; herring, potatoes and of course one traditional aquavit.
Before sunset we took a walk west of the guest harbour and then a film before bedtime.
8 May Wednesday Kristiansand – Flekkeröya – Olavsundet, Ny Hellesund 5 + 6 nm
Sunshine and some wind from south west when we had breakfast.
Blue Heeler left for Mandal and we decided to take on some fuel and then leave in spite headwind.
Europe has very expensive fuel. 14.35 Nkr per litre is almost double compared to what we got used to around the world outside Europe!
Before noon we were ready to leave Kristiansand and headed south. Very cold and headwind made us stop for a late lunch on a pontoon at Flekkeröy and wait for a predicted change of wind direction.
At two the wind had changed enough for us to continue. Unfortunately the new wind was very week, but we sailed slowly close haul for a while, until we had to go straight into the little wind.
There was a strong north east predicted late at night, and instead of passing Ny Hellesund we anchored
in the very protected lagoon Olavsundet. This lagoon is completely packed with boats at summer time, but now we were alone and had plenty of space to anchor. Launched the dinghy and went ashore. We had lovely views from the high cliffs around the lagoon.
Had a barbecue on lamb slices ashore, using one of the prepared fireplaces. They even had tables and chairs! The coming weather made the sky a bit cloudy and it became cold before we returned to Moon.
Very cosy to get inside a warm boat!
9 May Thursday Ny Hellesund – Sanöy, south of Mandal 11 nm
Rain and wind during the night. Olavsundet gives perfect shelter and we had only gusts from the passing wind. Only the chain on the rocky bottom woke us a few times.
The rain kept on and unfortunately the wind almost disappeared together with the rain. In the afternoon at three we weigh anchor and motored further west. Between small islands and through narrow sounds in between shallows. This is not the main fairway, but because we couldn’t pass under another bridge and didn’t want to go a long tour offshore we had to navigate these shallow sounds.
We found another “free area”, with a jetty and a protected bay where we anchored. Only rocks on the bottom made the anchor slip around. Put out all chain and reversed stern to into the jetty. Now we got a good holding, probably because the chain was wrapped around big stones out in the bay.
The rain came back just as we settled down inside, a rain that kept on during the whole night. We even got some hail.
10 May Friday Sandöy – Mandal 5 nm
The forecast predicted northwest before noon, and because of that we made an early morning. Left before breakfast and motored in to Mandal to wait out the predicted two days strong north-westerly wind.
We moored at the pontoon in Mandal before nine, lots of space this early cold spring.
We discovered glycol on the floor under the table in the saloon! Our new fan driven heat exchanger in the heating system had a leak. Luckily only a hose clamp that had to be tightened, but cleaning up was the big work. Good to be on a pontoon with plenty of fresh water
In the afternoon, when the weather had improved, we took a long walk. Mainly to get some exercise, but also to find and examine the three big grocery stores.
After dinner we heard an engine behind Moon. Looking up it was Iguana with Berit and crew that had arrived. They had left Gothenburg one and a half days ago and sailed on an almost direct route. We have used just over one month along the two coastlines
After sundowners in Moon they were all tired and went to sleep in Iguana.
11 May Saturday Mandal
Had a late morning and woke up to a crystal clear sky. We did some postponed job in Moon, while Annika made a few trips to Iguana, solving some IT problems.
After noon we took a long walk, including climbing to the view point above town. We could see the big, white capped, waves offshore and were happy not to have to go against those ones.
Did some shopping on our way back to Moon. The shops in Norway are closed on Sundays.
We were invited for dinner in Iguana.
12 May Sunday Mandal
Very quiet night in spite it was Saturday evening and in the middle of town.
Woke up to the same clear sky as yesterday. The wind was even stronger than yesterday.
Did some work inside Moon after breakfast. Had lunch and then took a long walk more westerly to look at surroundings along the beaches. Mandal has several long sand beaches facing southwest to northwest.
After dinner the crew from Iguana came for a night cap.
The marina has filled up due to boats waiting to pass the open water west of Mandal and the famous cape of Lindesnäs, south cape of Norway.
Week 20 13 – 19 May 2019 Mandal – Lerwick, Shetland 315 nm
13 May Monday Mandal – Köpsöy 22 nm
We woke up around six and decided that we had waited for better wind conditions long enough in Mandal.
One Norwegian boat had already left the pontoon and our Swedish friends were ready to leave. We topped up water and had breakfast and then we took off. Motored along the river out of town and behind some islands to get a better wind angle towards Lindesnäs, the famous south cape of Norway.
Halfway behind the islands we could set sails and shut down the engine. Full speed close hauled on flat water. Later 60 degrees and with fewer gusts took us comfortable around the cape. But now the sea state became completely upset. Sailing close hauled we got the waves perpendicularly to the bow! Following current made the waves unnecessary steep. Difficult to get good speed and comfort. After an hour our patience was gone and we tacked towards land. Now the directions of the waves became really to our advantage. In spite sailing close hauled we had the waves parallel with the boat. Now we were flying again!
Decided to stop and wait for more comfortable conditions on Kjöpsöy – a recreational area west of Korshamn.
Moored to a jetty in a bay well protected from the wind and swell. We had used the jetty twenty years ago and remembered the depth to be ok. But Moon is three meters longer than Lindisfarne, and the jetty had rocks in both ends, making it tricky to fit in Moon. But a carefully mooring with fenders and fender plank combined with our two big ball fenders aft and fore, made it possible to prevent Moon from hitting the rock.
Annika used the time before noon to make a cover for our bimini to use when we “furl” in and rest it against the backstay.
Had lunch and then a walk around the island, which is a “free area” open for public use.
Back in Moon we got a well needed shower before dinner. Annika found early nettles and that together with boiled eggs became a nutritious and healthy soup.
14 May Tuesday Kjöpsöy
Sunshine but cold morning, only just above twelve degrees inside Moon when we woke up.
Back in bed after having fired up the furnace. Half an hour later the kettle whistle and breakfast was soon ready. Waiting for better wind direction we started some small projects.
One was to adjust the forestay to match the tension of the cutter. Another was exchange the extra cover on the halyard through the clutch. Dyneema is not easy handled by old fashion clutches. Then the furling line to the Yankee had been chafed and had to be replaced.
After breakfast, when the sun had warmed the air, we started our outdoor work, prepared with cold weather gear. The sail had to come down, both for the head stay adjustment and for the halyard work. As always this type of work takes much longer than expected
We had to have lunch before we could finalise all three projects. By then it was warmer and we could start prepare for our barbecue ashore.
15 May Wednesday Kjöpsöy – Egersund 46 nm
Already as we woke up, the north west wind had faded and now a weak east wind was blowing.
Had breakfast at the jetty, waiting for the wind to build as predicted. Left the jetty around nine and after having passed the narrow sound through Korshamn we turned to windward and hoisted the sails.
With the engine shut down we turned offshore and left the inside passage.
Coming outside the islands we could steer almost direct course towards Lista, a famous graveyard for sailing vessels in the old days. The coast outside Lista is very shallow, completely opposite to most of Norway’s costal areas, and have historical been the end of many ships.
The story is that you should see the top of the big lighthouse well under the ridge of the mountains in the background to be outside of the dangers!
Following current and fresh easterly wind took us fast and comfortable north along the coast. Only the last two hours before Egersund we had to use the engine due to decreasing wind. Half past five we were moored in Egersund and did some grocery shopping to be able to leave before sunset.
Back in the boat we managed to hook up to shore power and decided to stay for the night, even if they already charge summer prices.
16 May Thursday Egersund – Kvernevågen/Skadbergsvågen 4 nm
The water around Moon in the harbour was like a mirror the whole night and morning.
Blue Heeler, our Ossi friends, arrived elevenish. We overhauled them yesterday as they stopped in Kirkehamn to climb the steep mountain to have a fantastic view.
We used the laundry machine and had a steep walk up the mountain, Varberget, in south part of town. What a view and many photos on display showing WWII stories around the town and harbour.
Around four we left the harbour for the fuel dock. Took on 200 litres of well taxed diesel and then continued west closer to the coastline.
Anchored in the last protected bay before coming out in the ocean, prepared to wait out the calm.
Had a sun downer sitting on deck, almost too warm in the sunshine. Summer is here again!
The full moon came up above the high cliff east of us and made a perfect picture together with the mirror like water.
17 May Friday Skadbergvågen
Woke up around seven and checked the weather forecast. No wind along the coast and nothing going west to Shetland. Decided to stay on anchor for the day and make use of the better forecast for tomorrow.
Quiet morning until noon on mirror like water. Sunshine from a sky with some light clouds.
We took the dinghy to shore after lunch and walked ten kilometres on trails in the area, very much up- and downhill Three hours later we were back at the dinghy, exhausted and very warm after the walk.
In Moon we got a well needed shower. In spite it was the Norwegian Flag day, there were only three boats moored to the jetties ashore and the celebrations were very quiet.
18 -19 May Saturday – Sunday Skadbergvågen – Shetland 243nm
The forecast was not really good, but better than yesterday.
We had some rain in the early morning, but as we headed out to sea after breakfast, the drizzle stopped. We used the engine and steered due west to reach the wind. There was a gale further south, but around noon we gave up waiting for the wind and altered our course to North west and directly to Lerwick. Unfortunately the swell from the gale found its way up north to where we were motoring. No wind and swell on the quarter makes a rolly trip. After another few hours we got a weak wind from east, making it possible to hoist a main to get some stabilizing. The whole day and night was under engine!
Had Gannets and Fulmars around us most of the day and were happy we at least had no rain.
During the night we passed lots of oilrigs with a crowd of servicing ships. This crowded surrounding continued until noon. We were happy that the night was not very dark, thanks to the time of the year and a full moon above the clouds.
Sunday morning, still in between the oilrigs, we got wind enough to be able to shut down the engine for six hours. In the afternoon we got fog and the wind disappeared. Only the radar and AIS told us about the nearby ships. The oilrigs were “gone” by now. Early night the fog was gone and only the dark sky determined the visibility.
At midnight we called the Shetland Coastguard and announced our arrival to Shetland/Lerwick. Again it was not really dark. In spite we arrived well after midnight. Half past one we moored in small boat harbour, rafted to a German yacht we saw in Mandal, and went directly to bed.
Annika & Björn