Week 14-17 2019 Helsingborg to Norge
1 – 28 April 2019 297 nm
Week 14 1 – 7 April 2019 Helsingborg – Göteborg, Eriksberg
Finally we are sailing again!
1 April Monday Helsingborg
Due to the predicted south easterly Tuesday, we left our winter berth and moved across the harbour to have an easy start with wind out from the wharf.
We had a visit from Gothenburg just as we moved. 50% of the crew of Chess paid us a two hour visit on route south by car.
Cold but sunny weather.
In the afternoon we had a last coffee together with Björn’s mother, leaving the car in the garage and then a final walk back to Moon.
2 April Tuesday Helsingborg – Bua 77 nm.
Left the wharf 8:30 and the forecast was spot on. Following wind around 20 knots and following current 2-3 knots through the sound. On top of that bright sunshine from a clear sky. Couldn’t be better! Ok it was a bit cold and hadn’t the wind been from behind it would have been quite another scene!
Coming out of Öresund the current decreased and half way we had almost no current at all for the remaining 30 nm. The autopilot didn’t work, but with these lovely condition it was no punishment to attend the helm
The average speed over ten hours sailing was 7,7 knots, not a bad start of the season.
Before sunset we were tied up to a floating pontoon in Bua and our friends Anders and Agneta brought Pizza as a welcome. We were exhausted from all wind and sun and had an early evening after the meal.
3 April Wednesday Bua.
Spent the whole day together with our friends with walks and lunch at their house.
Not much wind today, but still sunny.
4 April Thursday Bua – Tistlarna 22 nm
Anders came, in spit early time, and wished us fair winds and safe sailing as we left Bua. Still no autopilot. We had calibrated it during the stop, but there must be some weird things going on. Annika called the service department and got some input, but that have to wait until we are moored.
The goal for today was the lighthouse Tistlarna, a small group of islands in the outer part of the south archipelago of Gothenburg. It’s actually to narrow for Moon, but in the light wind coming from east we thought it could be feasible.
Very slow comfortable sailing in just below ten knots of wind.
Coming in between the small islands we manage to anchor and then use three ropes ashore to keep Moon in the middle of the little bay. It was close to what we got used to in Patagonia many years ago!
After having secured Moon we took a long walk on the islands, connected with a narrow causeway.
Lots of geese, mainly Barnacle Goose, a few Canadian and one pair of Grey Lag Goose along our route.
Still sunshine bit only warm where the wind didn’t chill us. We finalised the day with a new go on the autopilot. This time it cooperated and seemed to work as it used to do!
5 April Friday Tistlarna – Vinga – Hinsholmskilen 9+9 nm
Due to our exposed anchorage we didn’t want to stay for another night. Left quiet early and motored in light wind due north to Vinga, the famous lighthouse west of Gothenburg.
Arrived early and were secured to the dock already at nine o’clock. We were the only boat, and that was good because there was no room left when Moon have to turn 180 degrees in the little basin.
After a nice walk to the lighthouse and a lunch in Moon, we left for Hinsholmen, one of the big marinas in Gotheburg.
Berit, our sometime crew in other parts of the world, took our lines and we had dinner together in Moon.
6 April Saturday Hinsholmen – Eriksberg 4 nm
Started the day borrowing Berit’s car and bought some must have boat items in Sisjön (Where most of the chandlers in Gotheburg are).
Coming back to Moon we motored into the river and the marina in the old shipyard Eriksberg. Totally surrounded of up to 9 store apartment buildings.
Had dinner together with Nanny, Liv and Magnus in their new flat on the riverside in Eriksberg.
A fun evening with many memories from our meetings on east coast of North America.
7 April Sunday Eriksberg.
Still sunshine and north easterly wind.
Had breakfast in slow pace before we walked across the suspension bridge to the south side of the river where we had lunch together with friends in their apartment. Got some left over stuff from their old boat and took the ferry across the river back to Moon.
We finalized the day with a nice walk in the setting sun along the north waterfront.
Week 15 8- 14 April 2019 Eriksberg – Marstrand 43 sjömil
A week with many pleasant get together and a whole lot done on the boat.
8-April Monday Eriksberg
An early start where we called a welding company close by and made arrangement to redo our “openings” in the lifeline around the boat. We had them lengthened in Malaysia, but due to not the right materiel, they don’t look very good. To our big surprise they were able to do that right away. Rapidly we dismantled the lifeline and took the four special made stanchions to the welder, 40 minutes walk.
Walking back to Moon we passed a mall where we had lunch and found some groceries.
In spite the chilly but sunny weather we met lots of people along the wharf.
9 April Tuesday Eriksberg.
Cold and sunny morning. There is no electricity on our dock which made us running the Refleks furnace all night.
We got our stanchions back during our afternoon walk and had them installed before we had a shower up in our friend’s apartment.
10 April Wednesday Eriksberg – Hnsholmen 4 nm
Some snow as we cast our lines and motored out on the river to move back to Hinsholmen on the south side of the mouth in to Gothenburg. Hera we got power on the dock and even water. The latter is a problem in early spring when the nights often have frost.
Berit drove us around and we did some errands. The chart for the plotter that didn’t work was brought back to the dealer. We have ordered a new one that supposedly is going to work
Ordered a 120 Amph Gel- battery to our 12 volt navigation bank. Gel is supposed to do better with long time low amp.
11 April Thursday Hinsholmen
Winter is back! The whole week has been cold with several degrees below freezing in the early mornings. Humidity is very low with no condensation and no frost. Out off the wind the afternoon temperature is quite comfortable.
Again Berit drove us around to collect chart (finally working), the Gel battery and some items from the car part warehouse. A new vacuum cleaner made its way to the boat.
Dinner in our neighbour’s boat and then we drove home to his house and borrowed more than ten pilots covering Shetland, Faeroisland, Iceland, Orkney, Scotland and Ireland.
All our old ones for these areas are gone, given away when we left 2005.
12 April Friday Hinsholmen -Vrångö 8 nm
After a working morning we had a shower and lunch in Berit’s apartment.
Walked back to Moon and motored to Vrångö in the south archipelago where we were to meet Chess and Lana, the people we met further north when we arrived to Sweden last fall.
Had a glass of Champaign to celebrate the start of the boating/sailing season when our friends arrived.
The evening continued in Chess with seafood and some wine
13 April Saturday Vrångö – Fiskebäck – Engelsmannen 30 nm
In spite the rich dinner, all six of us attended a brisk five km walk at nine o’clock.
Then cast our lines and went north. We did a detour in to town and bought a wind stabilizer to the Furnace, a little valve in the exhaust pipe. Chess had a new Refleks and had found one, something we were told earlier was not an option.
Then we sailed to Marstrand and a little cove just north of the castle, where Lana and Chess were waiting for us. Very narrow and not a cove we normally can manage. Now we brought a long line to Lana from our stern and then out to anchor. Reversing in to the wind made easy thanks to the mooring line from Lana.
Shortly after we all sat down in Lana for a pleasant evening eating Tacos and more wine.
14 April Sunday Engesmannen – Marstrand 1 nm
Another walk at nine o’clock. Today it was only Chess and Moon that manage, but we got a nice walk with much more up and down in the mountain compared with yesterday.
Back in Moon we left our friends. We had o go first as we were blocking the entrance and they were heading back home.
We only moved into Marstrand and moored long side a pontoon where we had a meeting with Kerstin, who once put us in contact with Senos, a Japanese couple that took care of us in Himeji near Osaka.
In the afternoon we met Tindra and Mary.
Tindra had a Sundowner in Moon and later we had dinner in Mary’s apartment overlooking the wharf. During the dinner we discovered that we eventually have crossing routs this summer. Mary plan to sail around Ireland!
Week 16 15 – 21 April 2019 Marstrand – Dannemark 75 nm
15 April Monday Marstrand – Stenungsund 17 nm
Slow morning and some tidying up before we left Marstrand and motored north.
Just south of Stenungsund Björn called a former college living in Stenungsund who invited us for a visit in the afternoon.
Moored just outside the big shopping mall and shortly after that Anders came and brought us to his house where we had a nice afternoon on their sunny veranda overlooking the fjord all the way south to Carlstens castle in Marstrand. Some places makes you wonder if a house wouldn’t be nice after all!
16 april Tuesday Stenungsund – Svanesund 5 nm
Spent the whole morning until noon shopping. Three turns to the chandlery and then groceries and wine in the close by mall. This is probably the closest we have moored to a mall.
Got some clouds after lunch but no rain. Cast our lines and motored a short trip north to Svanesund to visit friends for dinner.
As usual a pleasant evening and a nice short walk home to Moon under a full moon.
17 April Wednesday Svanesund – Mollösund 16 nm
Another day with clear sky and no wind. Motored west between Orust and Tjörn in almost complete solitude. Early spring and workdays there are almost no boats on the water.
Moored before lunch in Mollösund, an old fishing harbour. Today most houses sadly are occupied by people living here only in summertime.
Elisabeth and Roger, from yacht Bijou, have bought a house here and brought us to their new house. Again amazing views and surroundings.
The house was in final state of rebuilding so the dinner was served in Moon.
18 April Thursday Mollösund – Danholmen 3 nm
We have promised each other to only sail downwind, but with this weather without wind it’s not easy to fulfil that agreement!
After breakfast we moved a few miles north and moored to one of the buoys belonging to the Swedish cruising club. Launched the dinghy and drove around in the neighbouring archipelago. Walked around on two islands and enjoyed the clear and warm weather.
Surprised to learn that the outboard had survived the winter, in spit our neglect. The guy in Canada that fixed it in June did obviously a very good job!
After these tours in the dinghy we finalized the day with an Easter dinner, herring, potatoes and aquavit.
19 April Friday Danholmen – Storön, Gåsöarchipelag 8 nm
Another bright day with no wind. A short trip to a buoy further north.
Took the dinghy rowing in to the shore. Storön (Big Island) allows you to do a long walk with amazing views in all directions overlooking the archipelago.
In spite it is Easter holiday there are still not many bots to compete with when we want to use a buoy.
Our thoughts during the walk were more or less completely with our friends in Yacht Tina Princess, in distress between Cap Verde and Canary Island.
They are on their final leg after five years circum navigation. Have probably hit something in the water beating north in twenty-five knots of wind.
20 April Saturday Storön – Långö close to Smögen 10 nm
Spent the morning on the island next to the one west of us, famous for big kettle holes from the big ice age. Lots of round holes formed by ice rivers and other shaped formations in the red granite. Very nice and interesting to see.
The splendid day was darkened by news about our friends in distress. Late last night they had to abandon their boat, rescued by a cargo vessel.
We can’t imagine the stress this was put on them. They have been living in their boat since many years before they started their trip, so it’s not only the boat, it’s their entire home that disappeared! In six days they will be in northern Spain.
31 April Sunday Långön Valön – Dannemark 10 + 3 nm
We were promised some southerly wind today and for that reason we left our anchorage quite early. But this high pressure have no wind. Again we motored, this time slowly through Soten channel with its swing bridge and took a buoy at Valö, aiming for a long walk after lunch.
But during lunch we discovered that the surroundings are accessible from the mainland, making the trail full of people as it was Sunday.
Left the buoy and after another three miles we took a buoy in Dannemark, dinghy ashore and a long walk wit no people around us and only the ocean west of us. Lots of traces from the old times when there was a stone quarry on more or less every island in northern part of the Swedish west coast.
Week 17 22 – 28 April 2019 Dannemark – Strömstad – Verdens Ende, Norway 58 nm
22 April Monday Dannemark – Hamburgsund 3 nm
We let go of the buoy before breakfast and motored in no wind condition in to Hamburgsund.
Lennart came by car and brought us inland a couple of miles to his and his wife Ragnhild’s little farm. We spent the whole day chatting, eating and walking in their forest, a very nice and different day for us used to spend most time on water.
Late afternoon they brought us back to examine Moon and some groceries was bought on their way home. We took a walk around the village when they had left and ended the day with some needs from the grocery store.
23 April Tuesday Hamburgsund – Gluppö 3 nm
Early morning we very slowly motored on mirror like water the short trip north to a protected water between three islands, where we caught a buoy close to the coming windward shore.
Took a long walk up on one of the islands. Difficult to walk because of dense vegetation in the gorges between the ridges. Very much up and down, giving us extra exercise.
We have been struggling with some dirt in the main diesel tank for a week. Luckily we have a big day tank and filter the diesel when filling it. Directing the return to the main tank we can “polish” diesel when the engine is running.
This has been working ok for a week, giving us four dirty Racor filters and a challenged pump when the filter got clogged. The pump seems to have been overheated, because now it stops even with a clean filter Relined the hoses to press diesel through the filter instead of suction. Still no working pump.
Have to continue this inspection tomorrow when we have shore power.
Some wind during late evening and night.
24 April Wednesday Gluppö – Grönemad, north of Grebbestad 8 nm
After breakfast we let go of the buoy and sailed north to Grönemad where friends have a house.
Moored in their marina and had lunch in their house. After a short trip in to Grebbestad together with Kenth, we continued with our diesel issue.
Dinner was served up in the house. Britt had made a delicious lasagne.
25 April Thursday Grönemad
For the first time in weeks we didn’t have clear sky during breakfast.
Continued our efforts to find what was wrong with our diesel line. Decided it was the pump that had to be replaced. After some phone calls we found a pump in Gothenburg and if we were lucky we could have it by tomorrow or if not next week.
Kenth managed to get hold of a neighbour, working in Gothenburg, and he will bring it here tonight.
We had the new pump in our hand fiveish. That’s timing!
During the afternoon we removed the manifold on the main diesel tank and cleaned the bottom. Fifteen liter of dirty diesel removed while cleaning the bottom but still over 100 liters left. This was probably the first time the tank was opened since the boat was built.
The day was finalized with dinner up in the house. Very convenient being served dinner now when the boat is a bit upside down.
26 April Friday Grönemad – Kalvö/Lindö 6 nm
There was no rain in the clouds and already after breakfast there was some sun between the clouds.
We installed the new pump and it worked perfect. To prevent the new pump to overheat we installed a small fuse. Got alarmed when the new pump stopped after less than a minute, but of course that was due to a too small fuse. Looking at the amp meter we could measure 0,8 amp and the fuse was only 0,5. With a 1 amp fuse the pump worked very well and is now protected against overheating.
The diesel in the glass bulb under the filter (have not yet been through the filter) seems to be quite clear. Hopefully all our efforts have solved all problems with the diesel feeding to the day tank and to the engine. With everything in place we cleaned the boat and then had lunch up in the house.
We ended our visit with coffee and a slideshow from our years of sailing.
Fourish we cast our lines and hoped to see Kenth and Britt in the fall.
Tried to sail, but soon the little wind was in our nose and we motored for a short while before we took a buoy close to Kalvö/Lindö.
27 April Saturday Kalvö/Lindö
No wind or rain during the night in spite the forecast had told us so. Looking at the rain radar we thought we could have a long walk before lunch. Took the dinghy ashore and walked across the islands. There are three islands that today are linked with causeways and you can really walk comfortable on a good road made 1930. OK there isn’t much traffic, but very little maintenance and still it’s in such a good condition. Thanks to the rain radar we could plan our return well before the rain started.
Afternoon was spent indoors during a silent rain.
28 April Sunday Kalvö/Lindö – Strömstad – Verdens Ende, Norway 38 nm
Had a slow start after a night with a silent rain.
After breakfast we decided to continue north and take a buoy close to Strömstad and go shopping Monday morning. It was noon before we left the buoy and was surprised to find wind enough to be able to sail most of the way to Strömstad. Coming close to the buoy we decided to go all the way in to Strömstad and do the shopping today.
Moored in center of town, (not possible in high season because of all boats from Norway!). Filled our water tanks and walked to the grocery store. Coming back to the boat we soon left for the buoy. But half ways we decided to continue across the Fjord to Oslo and into Norway.
25 nm and the sunset is nineish, which should be just in time for our arrival into Verdens Ende (the End of the World).
The wind died after an hour, but three hours later we arrived and could moor just as the sun disappeared. We are now in Norway and have spent almost exactly a month along the Swedish west coast. The first period was bitterly cold at night, but the latter have brought us summer temperatures. The birch trees are now full of leaves and lots of flowers are in full bloom. Even the Cherry blossom has started, almost as nice as in Japan.
Annika & Björn