Annika & Björn , Moon , www.sailaround.info
Seward – Prince Rupert 1634 nm
1 August – 25 September 2016 Week 31-38
Week 31 1-7 August Seward – Serpentine Cove, Prince William Sound 140 nm
1+2 August Monday, Tuesday Seward
Berit arrived at 09:45 to Seward after a trip from Sweden to Anchorage and a bus ride of two and a half hours. Seward didn’t serve the best weather, light rain – at least not pouring down. Berit sailed with us in Alaska from Sand Point to Seward five years ago. Now it was time to continue that trip to Prince William Sound, South East Alaska to where we don’t know right now.
More shopping to fill up our supplies to be enough for another crew member. Again we used the free shuttle back to Moon, not to have to carry our full back packs all the way.
Just in time for dinner Shuang Yu with Pam and Ted invited us and Christina and Jan from Liv. Pam and Ted celebrated their successful haul out, were the prop and rudder was examined after the fouling net they have had all the time since leaving Japan.
Tuesday started again with heavy rain. We used the morning for showers at the sailing club.
The forecast predicted sunshine in the afternoon and luckily that came true. After lunch we managed to bring two big bags of laundry to the laundrette and then it was time for a last visit at the grocery store.
Dave, who received our fuel pump to his address in Anchorage and forwarded it to us in Seward, came and paid us a visit. We agreed on meting tomorrow evening in Prince William Sound to get his best suggestions where to visit/anchor in the Sound.
Left the pontoon late and moored at the fuel dock to be the first to fuel up at six o’clock, not to be late after all tour boats.
3 August Wednesday Seward – Fox Farm, 52 nm
Early morning, not to be awakened by the fuel staff. Raven came shortly before six and we both got our diesel before the queue of tour boats started to line up. We got 94 gallons, consumed since DH, and soon we were on our way, motoring out of Resurrection Bay together with all tourist fishing boats.
Very picturesque in the rising morning sun above the hanging glaciers, but unfortunately there was no wind predicted for the whole day. No whales, not even a blow was seen throughout the day.
We arrived at Fox Farm around five o’clock, the same bay we spent four days waiting out a storm before proceeding east across Gulf of Alaska five years ago.
Raven was already anchored and Dave and his sailing friend Peter were out kayaking.
We did a shore trip together all five of us to be more “protected” from bears.
Later Dave and Peter came to Moon for an anchor dram, dinner and exercise in Dave’s cruising notes for the Sound.
4 August Thursday Fox Farm – Ewan Bay, 28 nm
The night was perfectly calm with rain after midnight. The predicted 10-15 knots easterly wind never showed.
Early breakfast because both Annika and Björn had not been sleeping well during late night. Trouble shouting going on in our heads about the not working HF radio. In Seward we didn’t get the HF radio to tune. Blaming all masts around us and forgot about it, using Wifi all the time. During the passage to Prince William Sound Annika tried to get the radio to cooperate without success. Late Wednesday evening we found two lose antenna connections, one on the tuner and one on the radio. Hopefully that was the problem. But there was also a possibility that one had been too loose, causing the radio and the tuner to burn some components… That’s why we didn’t sleep well. After breakfast and tightened the screws Annika tried the radio again. Great relief when we got in contact with two Winlink stations. If we didn’t have had the radio working we couldn’t have weather grib files and of course without those we can’t cross the Gulf of Alaska.
Back in business we weigh anchor and soon we were heading north into Prince William Sound in mist and rain with nav lights, AIS and radar turned on.
After motoring in no wind and rain for 25 nm we arrived in Ewan Bay where the head of the bay had a tidal water fall. Quickly we lounged the dinghy and tried to lure some fish in the rapids. No success and soon the standing waves disappeared in the rising tide and we drove the dinghy “over” the fall into the lake. 15 minutes later, no fish, we speeded across again and back to Moon. Soon after the tide changed direction and the fall started to grow high over the bar.
Rain with shifting intensity the whole day. PWS reminds us so far very much of Chile, Patagonia and the more remote parts of British Columbia. Lots of rain…
At late evening our tidal fall really was a fall. Not even to think about passing in a dinghy.
5 August Friday Ewan Bay – Bettles Bay, 45 nm
After a late breakfast the tide was low and the fall was spectacular.
Still raining, only little less now and then…
Some sea otters and birds but nothing more. No wind made us run the engine all day except for an hour when we could use the Yankee to support the engine. Our goal was the glaciers in Herriman Fiord, but that was too far to manage in one day under engine. We anchored in a famous mosquito cove, Bettles Bay, after we slowly at almost low tide have passed over the moraine into the lagoon in only 12 feet of water. Still few animals, even the mosquitoes were few, or our Malaysian mosquito repellent was very efficient.
Annika can tell you that having hiccups with broken ribs isn’t fun…
6 August Saturday Bettles Bay – Serpentine Cove 16 nm + glacier tours
We had to leave the bay early to get across the bar before the tide was to low. We managed with good margin and were now aiming for the glaciers, in spite rain and low clouds. There are many glaciers in the area, but we had been recommended Berry Arm and Herriman Fiord. The route included two old moraines to cross. We hade no problems to find our way through. The water and air became colder the closer we came to the glaciers. Together with constant rain it made the day quite cold and wet. It’s really nice with a good heating system inside Moon, especially under these circumstances. Seams that the cold air above the glaciers create a microclimate that makes the clouds condensate, giving rain all the time, adding to the low pressure with a lot of rain in the area.
We arrived to Serpentine Cove at lunch time and we decided to check the moraine at mid low tide to find the best passage and anchor for a lunch break. Inside the moraine sill there was a lagoon in front of Serpentine glacier with good holding in 30 feet of water. As the glacier doesn’t reach the water there is almost no risk of floating ice.
After lunch we continued into Herriman Fiord to see Herriman Glacier close up. Very close the magic blue colour was visible in spite the low clouds. Not many ice bergs and navigation was relatively easy. On the way back to Serpentine Cove the clouds was less low part of the time and we could see hanging glaciers and water falls on the hillsides.
Most glaciers in PWS are retrieving, but some are not. It’s not only the climate that effect what is going on. Much research has been done on Columbia Glacier detecting how the different phases of glaciers movements are carried out. For instance; when a glacier retrieves from resting on its moraine and instead ends in saltwater, the melting and speed of the glacier increase whatever climate.
It was very cold when we shortly after six o’clock anchored for the night in Serpentine Cove. Annika had prepared the dinner during our return from Herriman and it was nice for the crew to come inside a warm boat to a ready dinner.
7 August Sunday Serpentine Cove
We woke up to a even more intense rain…
Four days with constant rain. Everything we have read about PWS and rain seems to be true!
Gale and heavy rain was forecasted in the easterly part of PWS. We got the rain but no wind at all. We stayed at anchor under Serpentine Glacier, hoping to see a glimpse of the close by glacier in the now and then shifting clouds.
The water temperature is only five C, but our WhisperGen and Refleks have no problem keeping Moon warm inside. Condensation on aluminium frames around windows and hatches is the only problem. The new insulation we found in Seward is now rapidly put in place, preventing the condensation on hatches.
Sitting in the rain trying to see the glacier we can’t forget the luck we had in Glacier Bay five years ago. No wind, sunshine and the glacier to ourselves with Mt Fairweather mirroring in the water, between all the floating ice, above the glacier. Probably the most perfect condition you can wish for.
It seems that the good weather that have been the case in Alaska this summer eventually have come to an end. But there are still lots of days and several glaciers left to hope for better conditions.
We are strongly thinking of reinstall our bimini, not to protect us from the sunshine…
Week 32 8-14 August Serpentine Cove – Snug Corner Cove, 156 nm
8 August Monday Serpentine Cove – Fisherman’s Cove, 22 nm
The rain and chilly weather made us weigh anchor shortly after 8 o’clock. We had not to be too late passing the moraine. The heavy rain all night began to ease during our trip into Barry Fiord and there were even some blue holes in the sky! as we came closer to the three glaciers at the bottom of the fiord. According to the sea chart we were miles ashore (or into the glacier) when we came to the front of the melting Coxe glacier, showing that the front had retrieved a lot. Lots of thunder and falling ice made the close area in front of the glacier a bit risky with big waves and floating ice.
On our way out of Barry Fiord we got VHF contact with Liv, the Swedish HR 39 who left Seward a few days after Moon. They were now on their way into the world of glaciers.
After only six hours we dropped the anchor in the passage between Esther Island and the mainland, in Fisherman’s cove. Liv came a few hours later and rafted on Moon, where Annika had prepared dinner for all five of us.
9 August Tuesday Fisherman’s Cove – Cascade Bay, 20nm
Together with all rain the 40m fall from a lake should be more than normal.
This time Liv had already anchored in the cove and in the protected bay we rafted Moon to her. This time we both launched our dinghies to go ashore, but the swinging area was limited due to shallow water, so it was still convenient to raft.
Later when we had had dinner in Liv, it was comfortable to just climb the lifelines to get to bed in Moon…
We had almost no rain and good visibility most of the day. The waterfall was really impressing and the salmons struggling in the stream were plentiful. But no bears or eagles in the stream, only sea gulls. It’s almost depressing to see all dying fish. Especially as it seems to be of no use! Ok there were some otters, seals and sea gulls, but the latter only eat the eyes!
10 August Wednesday Cascade Bay – Heather Island, 49 nm
Again an early morning, this time due to the distance to Columbia glacier. We had a forecast with no wind but clear sky in the afternoon, something we had longed for a whole week.
Already after a few hours when we passed the last cape into Columbia fiord we got in contact with the first ice bergs, still 12 nm to the glacier. Now we had to navigate through ice most of those 12 miles. Crossing the old moraine was tricky, not because of depth but stranded ice bergs and associated floating ice, caught by those giants.
The sky really became clear and we got a fantastic trip through the ice all the way to the front. Not quite, the ice became very compact a mile before the front and we decided it was not safe to continue pressing our boats through the ice. There was a way back too…
After some nice photos we turned back and found our way through the ice. We only had to push ice twice to get through the ten miles to our anchorage at Heather Island where we anchored and Liv rafted. Rock Fish dinner in Moon.
11 August Thursday Heather Island -Sawmill Bay, 15 nm
The forecast spot on again! Rain all day! But we were happy to have had sunshine the day we visited Columbia glacier.
This day only a short trip to be closer to Valdez. Motoring the whole way and rafted onto Liv who had already anchored. After separate dinner everybody joined in Moon for slide shows and films from our Columbia Glacier adventure. After that we studied grib-files for the Gulf, not a funny reading! There is no good weather for at least four days.
12 August Friday Sawmill Bay – Valdez – Sawmill Bay, 29 nm
Shortly after eight o’clock we left our protected bay and motored towards Valdez. The current was predicted to be favourable, but we had more than one knot against! On top of that we had 10 knots of wind in our nose for three miles. Do we have to mention that it was pouring down and bad visibility? Coming into Valdez bight the wind disappeared. What a difference with rain and no wind compared to rain and 10 knot on the bow plus “speed wind”. Almost acceptable conditions.
In Valdez we got fuel but no berth in the marina. We were advised to the state dock on the outside where we rafted on a seiner fishing boat to do some shopping at SafeWay. An hour later we were heading back to our Sawmill Bay in fog but no wind and only little rain. We hope to be able to get a berth for a day or two in Cordova before we head out for the Gulf.
Moon anchored and Liv rafted and soon after that we were served a very helpful warm “Glögg”, hot wine with lots of spices. Very good for wet and cold sailors…
13 August Saturday Sawmill Bay – Snug Corner Cove, 21 nm
We woke up to a no rain condition! The wind forecast predicted good sailing conditions until noon. Weigh anchor and out of the protecting bay. No wind! Motoring the whole distance, but only rain for the last two hours…
Coming into the cove we got some gusts that made anchoring take some time. We planned to use one anchor each, but Liv had problem to get holding in the pebble bottom, so they ended up rafting to Moon. We were invited to Liv for a drink to celebrate that they just had become grandparents! Everything can happen on a cruise.
14 August Sunday Snug Corner Bay
Pouring rain at breakfast and predicted headwind on our route towards Cordova made us remain on anchor until Monday. We had lot of things and work to attend to. The three day shower is very important! A lot of e-mail and web- work was on the “to do” list.
The famous PWS rain is not only a rumour… We are really thankful for the weather we had while visiting Columbia Glacier.
The exchange of the fuel injection pump seems to be a success. The daily oil check still show clear and “greasy” oil after 70 hours, not black and diesel diluted oil.
Week 33 15 – 21 August Snug Corner Cove – Elfin Cove 433 nm
15 August Monday Snug Corner Cove – Hole in the Wall 31 nm
A very short daytrip from a good anchorage to a little hidden pond. The only spot that was deep enough was small and had only space for one boat with limited swinging room. So once again Liv rafted onto Moon. The pond was reached through a 400 m narrow canal which was almost difficult to discover from the outside.
Annika, Berit and Christina took the dinghy and examined the little river mouth for salmon and bears. Lots of salmon standing in the brackish water at the river mouth getting used to fresh water to be able to go upstream to spawn. They found some quite fresh traces of bears. The rain started again on the way back to Moon…
16 August Tuesday Hole in the Wall – Cordova 10 nm.
No rain and some glimpses of the sun now and then.
After a short trip over shallow water into Cordova we found a possible berth in small boat harbor. We had tried to call harbormaster but got no reply. Björn went directly to the office and we were allowed to use the spot we had found. We were happy to have more luck compared to Valdez where they couldn’t find room for us. The weather was absolutely much better than in Valdez, where we almost didn’t see anything in rain and fog. Cordova is, like Seward, situated in a very picturesque surrounding, high mountains with some hanging glaciers.
Seal, the big aluminium sailing boat we met in Seward, have her home port in Cordova, and they wrote us a map to find laundry, library and shops.
In the evening we visited an Australian power cat. Another guest was Mark who has his boat in Cordova. We met Mark and Nancy first time in Piriapolis Uruguay 2006. Unfortunately Nancy was out on a hike down in Washington. Mark was very much the same guy we met before.
17 August Wednesday Cordova – Double bay Island, 29 nm
Before we took off we run a lot of errands and at noon we left Cordova. The expensive harbor fee and the fact that we had to go 60 nm around two islands to get to the entrance of Gulf of Alaska made us leave to be in position, when/if the predicted weather window for the passage to cross Gulf of Alaska shows up. You are strongly advice not to use the shortcut directly from Cordova unless you have fresh local knowledge about the shifting shallows. Following that advice we turned back north in the relatively sunny and warm weather. But as usual no wind until the last hour before reaching our anchorage. 20 knots almost close hauled into the anchorage, only protected by an island. The wind was predicted to die shortly and we anchored in the leeward of the island. Again Liv had problems with setting their anchor and was offered to raft on Moon as we already had dinner ready in Moon. Very convenient to just have the life lines to climb, not launching the dinghy to get to the table!
The wind died but the remaining swell made the night uncomfortable. When rafted not much swell is needed to make lines jerking!
18 August Thursday Double Bay – Garden Cove, 21 nm
Everybody had a bad sleep due to the jerking lines, but we woke up to a day with no rain and sunshine. We were still in Prince William Sound and had to continue. Shortly after noon we reach our last anchorage in PWS. We anchored “apart” to get a quiet night sleep.
Annika and Berit used our dinghy to explore two river mouths and also without success tried to catch some halibut.
Dinner in Liv, this time using the dinghy… Together we shared our thoughts about the three days passage of the Gulf. The predicted wind seemed almost to disappear, but everything is better than strong headwind… The tide in Cross Strait had to be controlled, not to have the ocean swell against the tide.
Back in Moon we put the outboard in the locker and secured the dinghy on deck making everything ready for the passage.
19 August Friday Garden Cove – Gulf of Alaska to midnight, 90 nm
Six o’clock we were having breakfast under way. We had one hour to get to Hinchinbrooks Entrance where we were going to meet ocean swell for the first time since we came to PWS. We were eager to reach the entrance before the tide changed, although we would have tide and swell opposite each other. When motoring five knots it’s not fun to have two knots against, so we choose to run with the tide into the swell that wasn’t that high. The tidal part was soon done with no drama and the wind came up nicely as we left the shoreline behind. We even turned the engine off for five minutes until it was time to furl the headsails and motor sail with the main stabilizing Moon in the swell. Liv started later, but was soon five miles behind us. Again it’s nice to have AIS to keep track of your friends and of course other boats.
20 August Saturday Day two, 135 nm
A night with almost no clouds and a full moon over Moon. A mystic light over a flat ocean.
Only the ocean swells, changing due to the tide, rise sometimes. Three fishing boats with their enormous lights passed us. It’s really not fun with fishing boats using their work lights and navigation lights even if they are not fishing. Makes life difficult for fellow cruisers. Almost night blinded due to the working lights and difficult to monitor nav lights to see where they are heading and if they have fishing gears behind. Most of them have no AIS to aid monitoring.
The moon was exchanged to sun most of the day, a really beautiful day, but under engine.
We had a very nice mountain ridge to the north. 40 nm to shore we could see the mountains and the glaciers all the way into Canada. One of them up to 20 000 feet, 6000 m.
Albatrosses, Black footed and Short tailed, had numerous air shows in spite there was almost no wind. One Humpback and some Fin Whales came by. Even an Orca came close by and surfaced several times as it passed us.
21 August Sunday Day three – Elfine Cove, 127 nm, total 352 nm
Sun shine and beautiful views. The peaks along the Fairweather Ridge showed from early sunrise to late evening. We sailed along the coast, 30 nm off shore, giving us a splendid experience. In the afternoon we took photos of Liv with the mountains as a back ground and they took photos of us. Very special as we always sail on our own, and then of course can’t get any photos of our boat sailing. Yes we were sailing! The last six hours to the entrance of Cross Strait we had a nice downwind sailing, making it a bit rough to get through Cross Strait with two knots of tide against the swell. On top of that it was getting dark and there were lots of floating kelp around. We moored in Elfin Cove at 10 PM after a tough final in total darkness between islands, kelp and strong tide running against. Very nice to secure the lines to a pontoon in protected waters. We used our five years old track on the computer to aid us through the difficulties.
Week 34 22-28 August Elfin Cove – Fords Terror, 213 nm
22 August Monday Elfin Cove
We knew that we had to move in the morning due to seaplane arriving. We had moored to the float for the plane over the night and were told that the first plane arrive at nine. For some reason a plane came already at eight, so everything became quite urgent. Shuang Yu came from Cross Sound and took the empty spot on the pontoon, but because we were longer they had to go out again and let us more to the pontoon, and then they and Liv could raft on to Moon. Three boats “hovering” around in the narrow harbour as the plane came down. We now know why they call it “bush plane”! After that hectic morning we got a quiet breakfast.
Sunshine and a nice stroll through the little village. Very special with all footpaths made of wooden planks. We got a lot of photos on the enclosed pond, only accessible at higher tides.
Lunch in Moon and in the afternoon another walk in the village to get some shots at high tide, quite a different view with five more metres of water!
We used the not raining weather to do some postponed work on Moon. Our damaged chair at the nav table that we reglued in Seward got its back support cut to be able to turn it 90 degrees. Much better, especially when coming down from the cockpit with a lot of clothes on.
Annika went up the mast to check if she could see the end of the cable to the combined steaming light and deck light. We have finally found the source for the small amount of freshwater that find its way into the cable box at the mast support under the deck. It comes between the isolated leads in the four lead cable. There was no chance to see where the outer insulation ended behind the light without cleaning six blind rivets, and that was too much for today. She did some tape improvements that have to be the “fix” for today.
Coming back through the village after the afternoon walk we discovered that the Pub were closing for the season on the 23rd, which is tomorrow. Last time we were here it had already closed. Of course we had to pay them a visit and enjoy a beer. As we were treated with an Alaska Amber it started to rain. No problem as we only had a short walk back to Moon.
The evening ended with a get together dinner in Shuang Yu where Pam served a delicious salmon they got from friends in Seward.
23 August Tuesday Elfin Cove – Hoonah 37 nm
Rain all night until noon. We had planned to stay another day, but a high-pressure started to build and promised nice weather later this week and we wanted to take advantage of that in Tracy Arm. To use the favourable current in the nearby sounds we left at low tide around eleven. Liv was going to visit Glacier Bay later and stayed. Shuang Yu left together with Moon also aiming for Hoonah. We were happy that we left because the weather improved greatly “above” all expectations. We even sailed for some time. Around five we arrived to Hoonah and got a good spot on transient pontoon inside the piers. A nice couple in a big Juneau powerboat treated us with Moose burgers directly from the barbeque. Very delicious. A brief walk along the shore side and when we came back to Moon, Shuang Yu arrived and moored across the pontoon. The harbour fees are still high, but a bit less then in Cordova. The Pubic float in Elfin Cove was for free!
24 August Wednesday Hoonah – Funter Cove 23 nm
Started with another walk through the village as we had to wait for the tide, not to have the current against on our way east. Before coming back to Moon we had morning coffee in Sänna, an UK sailboat that spent several season in the area and were going to winter in Hoonah for the second time. Good yearly rate! Got several good tips from their experiences in BC and SE Alaska.
Left Hoonah before twelve and motored across Icy Strait into Chatham Strait where we actually could sail for a while. Moored to the float in Funter Bay around four o’clock. A local dinghy came by to say Moon looked beautiful and we had to agree of course. We invited them to have a look inside Moon and it looked like they liked what they saw.
An hour later we thought we were exposed to a short chop so we moved across to the northern end of the bay where we anchored and had a quiet night.
25 August Thursday Funter Bay – Auke Bay, Juneau 23 nm
The tide made us have an early start six o’clock not to have to motor against the current. Fog and fine rain most of the way. Very relaxing to have installed new bright and strong LED nav lights when fast small fishing boats comes flying towards us in the fog. Most of them without either radar or AIS. Moored to the public float before eleven o’clock. Plenty of space when arriving before noon when most of the tourist boats have left. A neighbour boater confirmed that “first come first served” is still in force. Registered at the harbour office and were surprised that the price was similar to what we paid five years ago, half price compared to Cordova.
The neighbour lent us his car to drive to Safeway to stock up and to buy a sim-card. Back in Moon we had lunch and a shower before we took the bus into Juneau. Three big cruise ships were in town. Maximum is six ships! But being quite late and one actually preparing for leaving when we arrived, the town was not crowded at all. We strolled along the tourist shops to get an impression what was offered. It seems that the same shops are present in many of the pit stops for the ships and we learned that many of the stores were owned by the cruise ship companies… How typical Alaskan was these jewelleries that are offered in ten of the stores?
When the cruise ships had left town it got very quiet and we had dinner and an Alaska Amber before we took the bus back to Moon in Auke Bay in the dark evening. It was drizzling all the time going back.
26 August Friday Auke Bay – Taku Harbor 37 nm
Rain all night and until noon. Laundry during the early hours before noon. Shuang Yu came from Hoonah and we exchange some information. They had some photos of a sailing Moon from our Tuesday sail. We then fuelled and had water before we took off. The weather improved gradually and at late afternoon we were sailing downwind in a fresh breeze. We managed to go all the way to Taku Harbor where we moored at the public float just before dark at eight o’clock.
27 August Saturday Taku Harbor – Tracy Arm – Tracy Arm Cove 71 nm
The major reason to do the long day yesterday to Taku Harbor was to be able to reach Tracy Arm during Saturday if the weather fulfilled the forecast.
Woke up before six and found a clear sky. Left the pontoon before breakfast and motored towards Tracy Arm 25 nm down south in Stephens Passage. Part of those miles we could go by sails! Several humpbacks and even an orca was on the menu before we crossed the bar into Tracy Arm.
Tracy Arm is 20 nm into the two glaciers, South and North Sewyer. The south one ends in tidal water, but the north has continued to back and now almost not reaching sea water.
We have seen many fjords and glaciers all over the world and are not easily impressed by new ones… Tracy Arm is far from the biggest glacier we seen. BUT the total experience of the narrow long fjord and the closeness to the glacier front is breathtaking. The glacier is extremely clear and partly dark blue. The cliffs in the fjord are compared with Yosemite National Park. Annika have been in Yosemite and can agree to that statement.
It took us the whole day to get to the front due to counter current in the fjord and the four boats we met had probably some thoughts about if we were going to make the return before dark. There are no possible anchorages in the fjord due to depth and moving ice.
Arriving to the fronts it was obvious that we could not reach the southern glacier due to lack of time and too much ice in the fjord. We had to choose the northern front. Across a relatively deep moraine and around a cape and there it was. Deep bleu and white. Not much ice in the water made it possible to get very close. We hovered for some time under the 50 meter high front before we turned out again. Just as we turned a big ice block fell down, not with the thunder we are “used to” but with a big bang like from a cannon. Of course we had stopped filming when this happened!
Going back we thought it should be a long and in the end dark trip, but surprisingly the current was with us the whole way in spite what the tide table told us. The tide was rising, but lots of freshwater from the ice and all waterfalls made obviously the surface water run out of the fjord. Lucky us!
We arrived to the anchorage in Tracy Arm Cove just before sunset. The only “problem” we had going westbound was the sun reflecting in the water which made it impossible to see ice smaller than a cubic meter. We had to “tack” our way down the fjord to avoid the glittering water.
A very long day full of amazing views and experiences under a clear sky.
28 August Sunday Tracy Arm Cove – Fords Terror, 21 nm
After some discussions during breakfast we decided to aim for another fjord close by. We saw several blows from humpbacks as we left Tracy Arm and turned into Endicott Arm. While we were watching the whales the weather improved end we got almost as nice sunshine as yesterday. After passing the moraine there were no more whales and we only had to look out for the ice.
We arrived in Fords Terror in early afternoon and anchored just beside the rapids in 30 metres of water. The pilot was not very correct! Launched the dinghy and did a run through the rapids and up the fjord. Almost as majestic as Tracy Arm but without glaciers. But the rapids, the Terror, and the high hillsides around the anchorage are making up for that. Picked some bleu berries and found quite fresh traces of bears. Around the rapids we found lots of big pots carved in the stone by the ancient glacier river.
Back in Moon we had a quiet evening dinner as the darkness got very dense because of the close and steep hillsides. We could only see the stars vertical from Moon. Not a place to anchor if williwavs are to be expected!
Week 35 29 August – 4 September Fords Terror – Sitka 243 nm
29 August Monday Fords Terror – Last Chance Harbor 35 nm
In the early morning the water around Moon was flat and no turbulence, but only 100 meters away we saw the rapids in Fords Terror running up the fjord where we had outgoing water yesterday. We had the dinghy in the water so it was easy to have a closer look.
There was no chance that we would like to risk a run through the rapids today, much stronger current in flood tide compared to ebb tide. Standing waves up to a meter isn’t something to play with if you don’t have to.
Berit and Björn were filming while Annika demonstrated the rate of the rapids by slowly motor against the current, allowing herself to glide with the current until close to the waves, where she increased the revs and kept the dinghy standing still, before she at full speed overcame the current and rushed out of the stream. We estimate the speed of the current to 8 knots. After a few runs, Annika then picked up the “film team” and we left before a new boat disturbed our pristine fjord.
Out in Endicott Strait there was less ice compared to yesterday. Only some big blocks which made navigation easy because they were easy to spot in a distance.
We started to look for whales when we passed the moraine. There were still a few but as it was relatively shallow we didn’t see any spectacular dives and because of that we continued out in Stephens Passage aiming for Admiralty Island. When we came closer to the island we saw a lot of humpbacks diving, showing high flukes.
Anchored in a deep, narrow bay open to south east. The bottom full of pebbles, but we got a good holding in 10 metres of water. Not much wildlife except for some birds.
30 August Tuesday Last Chance Harbor – Chapin Bay 29 nm
Very quiet night, only some sound from the chain when the tide changed. Absolutely no wind during the night.
When we came out of the bay there was a fresh northerly breeze east of us out in the strait, but we didn’t get any of that on our way southbound along the coast of Admiralty Island. We got some swell but even that died coming around southeast “cape” of the island. Now we got all whales we could wish for. Fredric Sound, the water we now was passing, was full of groups of humpbacks, diving/fishing in different ways depending on the depths where they were fishing.
One group south of us where in deep water and showed nice high tails/flukes when diving. On top of that some were breaching high up in the air, coming down with a great and loud “splash”. Relatively far away, but we got some nice shots. Very seldom you can get shots all the way from breaking the surface to the spectacular landing splash.
A group of orcas were fishing among the humpbacks. None seamed to pay any attention to the others, although some orcas are known to attack whales. These were obviously only interested in fishing and the humpbacks seemed to understand that. The whole day we were entertained by these giants. Sometimes they were very close, but we never had to change course to avoid collision.
Already at three o’clock we anchored in Chapin Bay on the south coast of Admiralty Island, again a bay where we should be able to see bears. Good protection, but again a little deep. Anchored in 25 meter with good holding.
31 August Wednesday Chapin Bay – Bluff Bay 27 nm
A calm and quite night. No bears on the shore. After breakfast we weigh anchor and left for Baranof Island. Saw some blow from whales in great distance. Coming out in Chatham Strait, we got a nice northerly breeze and we shut down the engine, sailed beam reach all the way across Chatham.
The sails came down behind the first island outside Red Bluff Bay on Baranof Island. Red Bluff Bay isn’t only a bay, it’s an archipelago of several island making the inner bay completely land locked. The final bay behind all the islands is really a treat. At the end of the bay there is a stream and a big grass field with numerous of bald eagles, gulls, seals, black crow and king fishers. Bears are supposedly common (even here). Already when we were checking out our place for anchoring we spotted a brown bear with two cubs!
After having set the anchor, we drew the dinghy to the great waterfall we passed on the way in and then slowly we approached the stream. Yes the bears were there. Still in tele lens distance, but nice in the setting sunlight.
We stopped at a powerboat with guests on board and had a chat. Asking what places we shouldn’t miss in SE Alaska they mentioned Fords Terror! And we couldn’t more than agree…
After dinner we “found” a mountain goat high up on a hill, and later another close by the first. Talk about success, bears and mountain goats in the same bay.
1 September Thursday Red Bluff Bay – Warm Spring Bay 37 nm (tacking distance – straight ahead motoring 21nm)
Woke early to check the bears. Yes they were out on the tidal flats searching for food, but to dark for the cameras with long lenses. We saw the mother catch a salmon and then retreat into the trees and after that we didn’t see them again, so we weigh anchor and left.
Thanks to the bears we came early out into Chatham where a fresh northerly breeze was blowing. Raised a reefed main and headsails which gave us great speed close haul. Half an hour later we reefed the main a second time. Much better balance and greater speed. We lowered the centreboard and the heeling increased! But the adrift decreased. After some thinking it is obvious that the heeling must increase a bit, the forces on the centreboard when keeping Moon from drifting must be taken care of by the ballast, thus increasing the heeling. (Remember we have a “floating” centreboard, not a ballasted one.) We are slowly learning how to use the centreboard!
We tacked our way up north in Chatham Strait and in the afternoon when the current changed the wind eased and we raised the full main. Now we were back to the sail speed when the centreboard slowed us down half a knot and that together with counter current made us not gain anything from the centreboard. That was what we learned in Asia with very light winds.
Finally we moored at the pontoon in Warm Springs Bay and got our hot bath after a full day of tacking in Chatham Strait.
2 September Friday Warm Spring Bay – White Stone Cove 72 nm
Not so quiet night at the pontoon because of the nearby waterfall. On top of that we woke at fiveish when three boats left the pontoon. A bit worried because of the great current due to the stream from the waterfall, making it difficult to manoeuvre, we thought we might have to “protect” our boat. But at low tide the current was making no extra problem.
We left shortly after dawn because we wanted to take advantage of the tide/current up in Peril Strait “across” Baranof Island to the west coast and Sitka.
First 20 nm to the north in Chatham and then northwest into Peril Strait with three hours to go in west running tide. That’s the plan! The current in Chatham was not fully cooperative, but enough to get us to Peril in time to run with the tide. Peril Strait makes a dog leg and that is where the direction of the current change depending on the tide. We were just in time for slack water to ebb and the water was starting to run west out to the sea when we made the dog leg. We did the whole strait and the narrows with following current and decided not to anchor and wait for slack in the narrows, being quite experienced from Scotland, BC and other places with rapids and high current speeds. Everything went very well, but it’s scary to see the markers almost tip over when they look like they are running against the current in five to six knots.
We continued and anchored in the next narrow strait, Neva, shortly before eight o’clock. While investigating the depth in the anchorage Berit spotted a black bear on the beach less than 100 metre from Moon. Our first black bear on this trip.
3 September Saturday Whitestone Cove – Thimbleberry Bay, Sitka 22/43 nm
Up early to check the bears on the beach, but there was no beach, only dense fog making it impossible to see the anything.
Soon the sun chased the fog away and we weigh anchor without seeing any bears. We had to be early to have following current in the next narrow Olga Strait which is a partly shallow 4 nm long strait and ends just north of Sitka where we arrived and tied up in Thomson Harbor for an hour shortly after 10 o’clock. Annika and Berit went to the supermarket and Björn stayed on Moon taking on water.
We then left the harbor for a visit at a small volcanic island off shore in the perfect day with no wind and almost no swell as we now are exposed the ocean swell.
Had a lot of humpbacks on the way out, one came up only a metre from our bow and we were happy to have “whale” shaped hull with no keel, propeller, skeg or rudder that can hit/catch the whale or be damaged by the whale. (hopefully)
The volcanic island, St Lazaria Island was really amazing with caves and spectacular pattern in the volcanic rocks. Motored around the island at close distance to really have a close look. Lots of birds on the west cliffs, mainly common murre and gulls.
After the close up we went inshore again together with Snow Dragon II that had arrived to the island from south, to reach Thimbleberry Bay where they have a house. Coming into the archipelago we were amazed how much this looked like the archipelago of Stockholm in the Baltic. Lot of houses on the small islands and completely forested, almost hiding the houses.
Here in Sitka we have again got all the sea otters that we have been missing since Prince William Sound. Almost none found in the inside passages. All the way into Baranof Island south of Sitka we rafted together with Snow Dragon II on separate sides of Bagheera, a yacht we met together with Snow Dragon II in Seward and where they invited us to visit them in Sitka.
Sundowner, yes it had really been a sunny day, on the deck of Moon with part of the crews from all three boats.
Later we all took off by car to the local brewery and some serious beer tasting. Very good local beer. Back in Snow Dragon II we all were served freshly caught rockfish, rice, salad and as desert a lot of different ice creams. We picked up some more guests at the brewery and in total we were 13 people around the table and in the cockpit.
4 September Sunday Thimbleberry Bay, Sitka
Started with a hot shower, mainly because it was our “third” day and because we had a lot of hot water since motoring the whole day yesterday.
After breakfast and shower we went by car in to Sitka and up the Harbor Mountain which is reachable by car all the way up to the tree line on a road build during the Second World War by the army. From the car park there was a nice trail further up the mountain above the tree line. The top is some 3000 feet and we hoped for a spectacular view over Sitka and all the islands. But unfortunately, although we had nice sunshine down in Sitka, there was fog/cloud from 2000 feet to 2500. We had sunshine on the top but we where over the clouds and couldn’t see through. A good walk and very necessary exercise! On the way down we stopped under the clouds and got some nice shots over the northern islands and Olga Strait.
Further on to the historic park with lots of totem poles and memories from the fights between Russians and the Tlingit Indians in the year 1804.
Back in Moon we had a late lunch and took care of our laundry that had been washed in Bagheera during our trip to town. We had to take advantage of the nice weather to dry the laundry on the life lines. You never know how long this warm sunny weather will continue…
Late afternoon three ladies went ashore, Annika, Berit and Frances, to pick bleu berries high above their heads. Back home you almost have to sit on the ground to reach down to our blue berries!
After dinner Annika served, as desert, two different kinds of bleu berry cakes with vanilla cream. Very much appreciated by the crew of the three boats.
We will probably stay here for a couple of days, stocking up and arrange for the flight from Ketchikan home to Gothenburg for Berit at the end of this month.
Week 36 5 – 11 September Sitka – Klawock, Prince of Wales Island, 197 nm
5 September Monday Thimbleberry Bay, Sitka
The bay was really calm and rafted to Bagheera it was also very safe. Bagheera had one guest to deliver to the airport and we used that opportunity to get transport to the supermarkets in Sitka. Berit and Annika did some heavy shopping of groceries due to our coming route along the remote coast of Baranof and Prince of Wales Islands.
We spent the afternoon walking a trail together with Frances and Fukimi, their Japanese dog. The area is, as most places in Alaska, bear territory so bear spray is “mandatory”. The other week a guided group of tourists was attacked on an island nearby. Not good….
Our nice walk went uphill and past two small lakes, then down to sea level again where the old water treatment plant now was used to keep three bears. These were “problem bears”, so instead of killing them they keep them “escape safe” for the tourist to look at.
At dinner time we all joined together in Snow Dragon and Bagheeras house that now was clear of tenants. A very nice big house that still had some project of improvement coming. But they already had made some great upgrading the last year.
We could also use their fast internet, which was convenient because the phone cover in the bay was not good.
6 September Tuesday Thimbleberry Bay – Scow Bay 26 nm
Rain all night and a heavy rain! The forecast showed gale force on Friday and we wanted to get going not to be caught for days in a bay waiting to get to Ketchikan and the flight for Berit back to Gothenburg.
After a final visit to the house for some internet and saying goodbye we left. Very easy to get going when you are rafted, only loosen your lines and glide away…
The goal was a warm spring some 15 nm to the south, but coming there the rain was still pouring down and we continued south as far as the archipelago protected us against the pacific swell. Anchored in a “bomb proof” anchorage according to the pilot, and we can only agree.
7 September Wednesday Scow Bay – Egg Harbor, Coronation Island 62 nm
Early start in rain. Not to get caught along Baranof south east coast we were going to make a long daytrip on an open coast with big swell from several directions. Unfortunately there was no wind to stabilize Moon! But with the centreboard down the rolling was at least minimized. Really awful morning hours but some miles offshore, conditions got better but still no wind. The forecast predicted north westerly winds in the afternoon, and sure enough, around three o’clock we got a good broad reach without engine support all the way to our anchorage. On top of that, the morning rain was exchanged to a beautiful day with sunshine already before noon! We had clouds with showers passing us from north to south offshore, but we kept the sunshine all the way into the anchorage in Egg Harbor. All had a warm shower before dinner and made an early evening to prepare for tomorrow when we really wanted to get to a ”bomb proof” anchorage before the near gale on Friday.
8 September Thursday Egg Harbor – Hole in the Wall, Prince Wales Island 33 nm
Slow start after a night with some light swell, but we all had a good night sleep.
The bay had lot of fish eggs that was clogging our engine water intake strainer. As soon as we got out of the bay we shut down the engine and rinsed the strainer and then continued motoring to east north east, passing south of Kuiu Island and then continuing crossing Sumner Strait towards the north west of Prince Wales Island.
We motored the whole day on flat, oil like, water with a lot of floating kelp and logs. Some whales blowing in a distance, and we saw sea otters and seals during the day. Less than one hour from Hole in the Wall we saw a humpback breaching more than 300 metres away, too far for good shots with the camera. Five minutes later it came up close by and started a five minutes show, lifting its fluke up high and smashing it hard onto the surface. First we thought it was trying to scare us to leave, but it continued as we were increasing the distance for almost five minutes, and on top of that we have seen humpbacks doing the same without any boats around. Quite a show and this time we got it on both film and photos.
We might add that closer than this, and we would have started to get worried for Moon, as the forces when the fluke hit the water are probably enormous.
The hole in the wall – to the anchorage – was difficult to spot without GPS. A narrow long channel into a totally landlocked bay and a perfect anchorage for two nights during a passing gale.
9 September Friday Hole in the Wall
Rain almost the whole night and most of the day. A lot of catching up was done. Blog, films and photos had been neglected for weeks. Not much wind reached the bay through the dense forest. Not much wildlife in the bay, only sea otter, goose, eagles and of course gulls.
10 September Saturday Hole in the Wall – El Capitan Cave – Sarkar Cove, 20 + 14 nm
Before nine we ventured out of the 15 metres wide channel and turned south against the remaining wind and swell.
To get to protected waters we had to go around some small islands with lots of kelp. Soon we saw some buoys, but they belonged to a bigger fairway for the barge to the marble quarry that we were going to pass. We were going in a much narrower route making a northerly detour.
After the quarry we turned east into a several mile long, partly man made canal. The depth was never less than four metres and well marked. After a mile the route turned south and there was a float for boats wanting to visit El Capitan Cave. We moored and did an hour hike up to the cave, told to be the longest in US! We have some doubts…
Coming back to Moon, the weather had improved and we continued south for some hours in bright sunshine. An almost not to believe fantastic and well protected archipelago on the west coast of Prince of Wales Island, all to ourselves.
Shortly before dinner we anchored in a protected bay, only “disturbed” by some houses and a resort.
11 September Sunday Sarkar Cove – Klawock, 42 nm
Had an idea of staying and exploring Sarkar Lake by dinghy, but dense fog made us weigh anchor and leave early. Less than 50 metres visibility, but radar, plotter and no boats made navigation easy. We saw some islands, but most of the morning we where embedded in fog. Very good to practise radar navigation during calm conditions. The fog was low and very close to the sea level and at one time we had a white “rainbow” mirroring in the water, making the surroundings quite surrealistic.
After noon we had bright sunshine and a light breeze that filled the Yankee the last hours before Klawock. The Totem Park “loured” us to the village.
Got a good spot in the little harbor and toured the village. Saw some lodges/resorts on the surrounding beaches, but the village itself is probably best described as a place forgotten by everybody. It is easy to get depressed walking around among what is left from the former Tlingit and Haida culture and population.
The totem park seemed more or less newly made and nothing in comparison with the historic park in Sitka.
Week 37 12-18 September Klawock – Dall Bay, Gavina Island, 129 nm
12 September Monday Klawock – Craig 5nm
Another morning with dense fog, but not as bad as yesterday. We left early in spite the short trip ahead to use the nice weather that was predicted. The trip to Craig took only an hour by engine and the sun soon chased the fog away and the forecast seemed to be spot on.
Moored shortly after nine at the transient dock in Craig. We started to visit the harbor master where we decided to stay two days thanks to the low fee that was half of what we paid in Cordova, only 55 cent a foot a day. The dock has electricity and good water, neither was offered in Cordova, which in fact make Cordova even more expensive. Got advice where to do laundry, buy food and where to walk in the sunny weather.
Checked the opening hours at the laundry and bought some bred at the food store and walked back to Moon for “11 o’clock coffee” with fresh bred. Decided to postpone shopping and laundry until Tuesday and use the nice weather for outdoor activities.
Next walk around the town brought us to the library for internet access. Opening hours was better on Tuesday, so again we opted for walking instead of indoor work. The sky was absolutely free from clouds, something we have rarely seen in Alaska! And on top of that no wind. Summer is back!
After lunch back in Moon we did a long walk out on a peninsula to the south of town. A nice prepared trail/path along the shore with the majestic trees in the forest behind.
We got a feeling that Craig was filled with people who took care of their houses, was walking and running as exercise, and of course was fishing a lot, not the depressing feeling we got from Klawock and yet the two villages are only some miles apart. To that impression helped of course the landscape. Craig is partly situated on an island with a causeway connected to the mainland where half of the village continue. The ground is not flat so almost every house has its own sea view. And a lot of streets crisscrossing the island, not everything along one road. Quite a nice little community!
13 September Tuesday Craig
The forecast was spot on even on Tuesday. Lots of rain already during the night, but the strong wind almost didn’t reach the harbour.
We had e-mail from Liv, the Swedish yacht we have sailed together with on and off since leaving Japan. They were in the area and planned to arrive in Craig at noon. There was plenty of space along the transient dock, being off season for the cruisers and almost for the fishing guys, so no worries.
After breakfast we took the laundry to run two machines. All these villages with fishing fleets have huge laundry machines and not to expensive. But ridiculously paid! You use 25 cent Coins, and when one load is about 4-5 $ that doesn’t make any sense. OK they have a changing machine.
Managed to bring the clean laundry almost dry to Moon in not so heavy rain.
Since Juneau we haven’t had internet in Moon, but in Craig we got signal and could use internet directly from Moon, making the option to go to the library in rain not favourable so we booked air tickets for Berit form Ketchikan to Gothenburg from the dining table in Moon, very convenient in the rain. We didn’t dare to go for Prince Rupert due to a predicted storm next week making it difficult/dangerous to have to cross Dixon Entrance to get to a flight in time!
We were close to noon, but before that we had time to visit the supermarket. Liv arrived in almost no rain and Stina joined the “supermarket party”.
Before they were done shopping, the rain was pouring down. Back in Moon there was some clothes and back backs that needed to be dried up…
Evening dinner was served in Moon for the five of us and we got the whole story about Liv’s experiences since we separated in Elfin Cove three weeks ago, mainly about the glorious weather they had in Glacier Bay. They showed some photos, and to compare the position of the glacier front we showed “the same” photo from five years ago. Almost the same position of the front but we had much more snow on the mountain, clear sky, much more ice in the water and absolutely mirror blank water in our old photos…
14 Sept Wednesday Craig – Elbow Bay, Long Island west of Prince of Wales Island 48 nm
The weather in the autumn is very changeable. One day of sunshine and the next full of rain, and so on. On our way south we had to pass some narrow straits and it was impossible to make the trip on following water all the way. The first two was no problem but the last one we know we should not make in counter current.
As we were ready to leave the neighbour fisherman came and offered us a nice big Coho salmon. Something you can’t resist so we were delayed half an hour to rinse and share the fish with Liv. Off we went and as expected the two first narrows was no problem, one following and one with counter current. But the third… We saw on a long distance the marker buoy making waves pointing at us – not good. But we made it all the way up to the marker in back current and decided that we will have a try anyway. Now we were close so we saw the water flowing fast though the short but narrow strait. We hardly made it – in fact if only half a not stronger current we would have had to wait an hour or two. Now we made very slow progress and twice we in fact went backwards. We made the 600 metres worst part in 20 minutes…
As the forecast had predicted wind from where we were going, we tried to get as far south as possible. Because of the “successful” passing of the strait we aimed for a safe anchorage another 25 nm ahead. The wind we had seen on the forecast caught us just an hour before the anchorage where we anchored shortly before darkness. With Liv rafted on our side we had a well needed anchor dram in Liv and then a nice dinner in separate boats – we eating salmon.
15 Sept Thursday Elbow Bay
It is very nice to be in a good bay when having a full day of rain and wind. The depth combined with the rather narrow bay made it hard to have scope long enough, but we had good holding. We stayed still all day due to up to 20 knots of wind and lots of rain.
Evening meal in Liv, herring and salmon.
16 September Friday Elbow Bay – Nichols Bay, Prince of Wales Island 32nm
Early start to make it to the south point of Prince of Wales Island. But first breakfast. As we finished breakfast something rumbled in the cockpit. Annika had put out the halibut hook with a nice piece of salmon skin on and understood what was going on. As Berit and Björn came up Annika already had the halibut up to the surface. Björn went down for the fish hook and soon a 12 kg halibut ended its life on our aft deck. A little messy but we got lots of meet and gave half of it to Liv.
Another day without wind, only some swell from the open sea. We kept navigating as much inshore as possible among the many nice islands where we suddenly saw a deer on a quite small island. Shortly after the swell increased but with the centreboard down the pendulum effect almost disappeared. We had only about five miles left to go when we met the counter current and made only three knots in sometimes very choppy seas. After turning in to the bay we suddenly saw a black bear cub running along the shore line and as we passed the island we soon saw the mama bear slowly following the cub. And all this in full sunshine – bingo!
The area around the south tip of PoW and the islands on the west side are said not to be well charted and we can confirm that… We tried to explore one on the chart nice, almost round basin, but it was not as expected, half of the bay was “on land” according to the chart, so we went further in to the bay where we anchored. Just an hour later when the little wind died there was some swell coming all the two miles into the bay. It was an hour until sunset so we moved around a little peninsula for better shelter. As we often have Liv rafted to Moon it’s much nicer to sleep on flat water… Soon after we all had halibut dinner in Moon.
17 Sept Saturday Nichols Bay – Ingraham Bay, Prince of Wales Island 26 nm
A rainy morning after a calm night. Again no wind and later we even got some sunshine.
At spring tide the water is shifting up to six meters in this area which makes the current quite strong. The plan for this day was to follow the east side of PoW Island and to do that, it is just to go around the south cape. Just 150 meters from the cape there is an under water rock, but there is a passage in between that the fishermen use, our guide book says. We had to try… and that was very good as it shortened the race and standing waves exposed area. Liv went south around the rock and had water on the deck for a short time.
After passing the cape we saw a fin whale among all humpbacks. The shore line is not walk able due to all drift wood pushed high up waiting for the next storm and spring tide to set it afloat again. The latter was what happened last time, five years ago, when we went south from Ketchikan to Prince Rupert and eventually we will have the same conditions this time.
The sun made some efforts to chase away the clouds but didn’t manage that for more than some hours, and then the rain started again. We kept moving close to the island too see more whales as the wind stayed away all day.
Found a nice anchorage just before lunchtime just in time for the sky to open completely – not sunshine but heavy rain… Spent the rest of the day writing an organizing photos ending up in Liv serving halibut and salmon soup.
18 Sept Sunday Ingraham Bay – Dall Bay, Gavina Island , 18nm
Another calm night with a full moon shining trough a thin layer of mist, but early in the morning completely dense fog. Early start to cross the Clarence Strait in favourable current starting in no wind. Later light wind helped to stabilize during the crossing. It was not a long trip this day either and already before lunch we had the anchor set. Again spent the afternoon writing and organizing.
Week 38 19 – 25 September Dall Bay, Alaska – Prince Rupert, Canada BC 113 nm
19 September Monday Dall Bay, Gavina Island – Ketchikan 15nm
We had again an early morning to try to catch the tide up the Nichols Passage to Tongass Narrows and Ketchikan. But as usual we got the tide both ways. Out among the islands it’s not easy to judge which way the current will run. Closer to shore and inlets it’s much easier and there we more often get it right.
Before noon we turned north into Tongass Narrows and got almost a chock. We have been out in the wilderness for weeks and now we were thrown into civilization. Lot of houses, boats and float plans. Ketchikan is really the first town in Alaska as they advertise. OK that is valid only if you come from the south…
Six Alaskan Highway ferries where in the narrows and two giant cruise ships were at the dock. The latter generated a lot of activities on the water, in the air and of course in the towns numerous gift shops. First we met a line of inflatable with cruise ship passengers led by a guide in a separate inflatable. Closer to the harbor some passengers were shown the harbor from an amphibian truck, didn’t look either fun or very safe…
In the air were numerous float planes flying around showing passengers the surroundings.
In the middle of all that we managed to get a spot in the marina. Current and wind made it tricky and our big ball fenders came in use… After lunch we set of for a walk through town to find the ferry to the Airport Island and then downtown for some sightseeing.
After a coffee we visited Customs to tell them that we have arrived Ketchikan. To our surprise they were not at all interested in our previous reports, they even told us that they were not valid because they had been made by e-mail… In the end they adjusted our cruising report in the computer, a report that showed that after Dutch Harbor we had only visited Sitka before coming to Ketchikan. If we hadn’t used e-mail how could we have been able to prove that we had followed the demanded procedure and reported when we arrived Seward, Elfin Cove, Hoonah, Juneau, Sitka, Craig and Ketchikan. This isn’t very easy because you get no recite that you have reported, unless you have your copy of the e-mail.
Never the less, the officer did put our departure date from Alaska to Canada in our report, so hopefully we are by Wednesday officially outside US. We will learn that when we arrive Washington State in a few months.
20 September Tuesday Ketchikan.
Berit walked the town the whole morning while we were working in Moon changing oil in the engine and gearbox. Better do that when being in a marina where we easily can get rid of used oil and filters.
Shuang Yu came from the north before noon and we helped them tie up. They had decided to leave their boat in Ketchikan for the winter and fly home to Seattle. Pam invited us and Liv for a last meal together which was just in time because Berit was going to fly home to Sweden on Wednesday morning.
We all gathered at sixish in Shuang Yu and had a nice meal made from the left over from the halibut we had caught earlier. And as usual had a pleasant time. We left relatively early because everybody was going to have an early start tomorrow.
21 September Wednesday Ketchikan – Morse Cove Duke Island. 36 nm
Early start shortly before six o’clock. Shuang Yu had already left the marina for the haul out.
After breakfast we drove across Tongass Narrows to deliver Berit to the Airport. Then we drove across again to the fuel dock. Liv was already there but had no luck feeding the pump their credit card. No worries, the staff will arrive in twenty minutes. An hour later and with 120 new gallon of diesel we motored south.
We were somewhat in a hurry to get to our protected anchorage before the south wind would pick up, announcing that the predicted storm was coming.
We didn’t have to worry, there was no wind until next morning! And we had plenty of time getting everything in order in our anchorage on Duke Island. The approach was tricky with four small reefs to come around before heading into the narrow channel into Morse Cove. Coming from north we saw one reef/rock, but which one of the four was above water. Thanks to the radar overly on the plotter it was obvious that it was the eastern most and the one that we were going to use as a turning point, making things very easy. Further into the channel the canal has no water at low tide according two of our charts, but the plotter and our pilot shows a fully navigable passage, which it was.
Anchored in the head of the bay in 15 meters of water on a perfect even bottom with stiff clay giving us an excellent holding. Because of the expected storm, we and Liv for once were on separate anchors.
22 September Thursday Morse Cove
Quiet night with no wind and the morning was clear and sunny. Using the HF radio we got information from the weather buoys in Dixon Entrance and that showed strong winds and swell. Nothing like storm, but pretty close to gale and directly from where we are heading.
With all these trees around us we could hardly feel any wind in our protected cove. Went over to Liv for coffee and just in time we took the dinghy back as the rain started. Tied the dinghy on deck to be ready to leave early next morning.
Some gusts during the night in heavy rain, but after midnight the wind died and the sky cleared.
23 September Friday Morse Cove – Prince Rupert, Canada BC 62 nm
Up with the roaster to use the tide and try to get to PR before dark.
There was no wind but some swell, high but luckily very long. We got a breeze from west giving us perfect stabilizing while running the engine.
There was even wind for the headsails, but we had to furl them many times during the morning.
Of course the wind freshened when we had started the Watermaker! But coming close to Dundas Island we shut down the Watermaker and shortly after even the engine. We had passed the open water of Dixon Entrance and were now sailing on flat water in lee of Dundas Island and the islands south of that.
Halfway down to Prince Rupert the wind almost died again and we had to motor the remaining three hours into PR using the northern entrance through Metlakala.
Shortly after we were moored in Rushbrook marina, Liv rafted (as usual) onto Moon because lack of space in the marina. We got hold of the Customs by phone and they called the local officials who came half an hour after our phone call. Fast and easy we were cleared into Canada with stamps in our passport and a registration number for the boat.
Then we had dinner all four of us in Moon.
24 – 25 September Saturday and Sunday Price Rupert Canada.
Early morning walk into town to do the laundry and some research where to find things. Although we had spent two weeks in PR five years ago, we didn’t remember where everything was to find, and some things changes…
After laundry we walked back to Rushbrook together with Janne and Christina, but didn’t hesitate to stop at the local restaurant in Cow Bay to have a beer.
Later in the evening, dinner in Liv. Very convenient to have a short step home when you are done. Being rafted like this we could give Liv some 220 volt AC, because they can’t use 110 volt. Very useful as the rain and no wind prevent them from producing any electricity.
Sunday morning Annika and Christina went to the shopping mall and came back by taxi with heavy loads of food.
Working indoors in the rain the rest of the day until potluck dinner at a local sailor’s house we had been invited to.
They served salmon and a nice salad and we added some dessert and wine. Nice people how had an old Swedish built Vega and a Catalina 40.
Annika & Björn , Moon , www.sailaround.info
Seward – Prince Rupert 1634 nm
1 August – 25 September 2016 Week 31-38