Week 18 29 April – 5 May 2019 Verdens Ende – Lillesand/Skaugeröya 103 nm
29 April Monday Verdens Ende – Svenners Lighthouse 11 nm
We left the wharf already before eight to take advantage of the little breeze during the morning. Halfway to Svenner we had to engage the engine due to no wind.
The lighthouse and its islands ten miles offshore is tricky to get in to, but in no swell and no wind condition it’s easy.
Saw one boat leaving the islands, but when we arrived there were no boats at all.
The little harbour is really small and there is only one place to more Moon to the mountainside. Three ropes hanging down from bolts high up on the steep cliff made it possible to tie Moon to the cliff and then use them to climb the three meter, almost vertical, high rock.
Due to early arrival we toured the main island before lunch. Lots of seagulls, geese and eiders.
We disturbed some eiders and they flew up from their nests, with one to five eggs in the nests. Luckily no seagulls seemed to be interested of the nests. Some (more experienced?) eiders stayed on their eggs in spite the marked trail and we passed pretty close.
Returning to Moon we visited the lighthouse to get the view to the sea and over Moon down in the harbour.
Had lunch and in the afternoon came a little powerboat. The guy asked if we wanted some crabs. Of course, and that made our dinner. Very nice people here in Norway!
In the evening, when we were lazy in front of a movie, somebody knocked on the hull. To our surprise the custom’s boat was next to Moon, in spite the time was well after nine o’clock.
They came on board and asked, very friendly and polite, if we had anything to declare.
We told them that no tobacco and only “house hold amounts” of wine and spirit.
(To Norway you are only allowed to bring one litre of spirit and one litre of wine per person)
After some talking about our adventures, which made them very curious, they asked if they could look into the boat. Annika showed them our liqueur locker, and they seemed pleased with the numbers
They opened a few other lockers and then thanked us for letting them have us in their statistic! Before leaving they asked if we seen boats passing the border from Sweden.
Giving the amount of boats out this time of the year, almost everyone have a great chance of being checked!
30 April Tuesday Svenner – Sandöya, close to Brevik 17 nm
Departure before any wind or swell had time to build, to make our departure as safe and simple as arriving yesterday. Offshore a light easterly breeze was blowing and we hoisted all sails.
Flat sea and ten knots of wind gave us six knots. We do have a bit of slime on the hull.
Breakfast under way.
Again the wind disappeared half way and we furled the headsails. The main came down an hour later when we were heading into the fjord and against apparent wind, making it easier to fold the main into the stack pack.
We were now to visit friends we met in Malaysia when they left their Malö next to us where we were repairing Moon on the hard.
We had been given coordinates and a photo where to more Moon, so in spite of a very small harbour, it was easy to enter and more, prepared as we were with fenders and lines in right places (and height).
There were quite a current in front of the entrance due to the river flow from the mountains. The water temperature was four degrees colder than off shore!
Had lunch and then took a long walk around the village and up in the forest. The spring has come a long way in this summer temperature!
Had a shower when back in Moon and we were just done when Kåre and Lillian came with the ferry from the mainland. They live in not far away town Sandefjord, but have Kilico, (their Malö 39), and a summerhouse on the island. They brought Kilico back by ship to Rotterdam after three years on the hard in Malaysia after having “followed our footsteps” down through Patagonia and then across to NZ before they came to Malaysia, not having decided how to continue.
After some chatting in the boat we brought everything they carried around the harbour and up to their little house. Situated high above the harbour on a peninsula pointing south along the fjord it had the most amazing view. 330 degrees free view with no houses, except for those you could see down below across water. Due south along the fjord we could see the horizon.
We had a pleasant evening with Norwegian prawns and a nice wine.
1 May Wednesday Sandöya
Sunshine and breakfast in cockpit.
Lilliad and Kåre came for coffee at ten. We took a long walk together using some trails between houses we didn’t dare to use yesterday. But with two “locals” who knew the accepted shortcuts it was no problem. Used a small pedestrian bridge across to the next island with more or less only summerhouses.
Back on Sandöya we had lunch up in the summerhouse, again admiring their view. We then left them to prepare for their return late afternoon to Sandefjord and work tomorrow.
Back in Moon we tried to find a small leak in our heating system with limited success.
Prepared for departure early tomorrow filling drinking water and getting rid of garbage.
2 May Thursday Sandöya – Risör 29 nm
Rain and some wind during night.
Woke up to rain and a dark sky, but with a brighter horizon to windward.
After breakfast the clouds disappeared and we could cast our lines in clear sunshine.
Used the current out of the fjord in almost no wind condition. Coming out at sea the wind increased and we had a good sail for an hour before we came into narrow archipelago where the gusty wind became even more erratic.
Before noon we got black clouds inshore. Planned to anchor and wait out the rain, but the anchorage we tried was to deep and therefore to narrow. Decided to continue in spite of the rain.
The first rain was light and with no squall, but the second one
Because of vey light wind we had full sails and that was of course a challenge when we were hit by almost forty knots coming down from a very black cloud together with hail. Moon was almost down to the cap rail before we could bring her around to get the wind across the stern. Furled the Yankee and “flew” away running in more than eight knots using only a full main.
Half an hour later we could retrieve our course to Risör, where we arrived before three o’clock.
Electricity on the pontoon but no water and no charge is a good option, especially as we were prepared with full tanks of water.
Took a long walk and bought some groceries before we made dinner in Moon.
Eating out in Norway is not included in our budget. There were several restaurants waiting for guests, but prices and off season did not bring many
3 May Friday Risör – Arendal 23 nm
Sunshine but very cold when we woke up. Nice with electricity on the pontoon and thermostat regulated heating in Moon’s water heating system. Got going after breakfast using a spring line due to wind against the pontoon.
Only headsails and the engine running due to very shifting wind conditions, mostly from ahead.
After noon we again got dark clouds coming out from shore. Snow and hail with bitterly cold wind, luckily not as strong as yesterday. But today we had learned the lesson and only used headsails to be prepared. Hot rosehip soup and a cheese sandwich became lunch at the wheel.
Moored in Arendal marina where Ally and Wayne from Blue Heeler took our lines.
Had a hot spicy reed wine together and talked about our experiences during the winter. We as volunteers in community service (Björn’s mother), and they about wintering in Flensburg, flooded by three meters of river water.
Paid harbour fee including showers, electricity and washing machine. Not cheep but still winter price.
Ally cooked salmon which was served down in Blue Heeler. A nice get together and of course lots of talking about life as full time cruisers.
4 May Saturday Arendal – Merdö 3 nm
Sunshine and cold with no wind when we woke up.
The hail and snow yesterday was now forgotten and it looked like summer again. After breakfast we said bye to Ally and Wayne as they “drifted” south towards Kristiansand. Our rough plans overlaps and we will sure meet again on our route before our plans (right now) to winter in Spain or Portugal.
Put the laundry in motion and when the dryer was on we went for a walk around the town. Some exercise and some shopping were on the agenda. Coming back to Moon with groceries and laundry it was time for the showers. Two o’clock we were done and left Arendal for an anchorage closer to sea.
Anchored in leeward of an island, but the weather didn’t invite us to do a shore trip.
5 May Sunday Merdö – Lillesand – Skauteröya 18+2 nm
Wind system govern our departure every day. Mornings we have had wind from north until around noon, shifting to west or south west. As we are heading south west we have headwinds after noon.
This made us have an early start as usual to get as many hours as possible with the northerly. Already half past seven we were on the run, having breakfast under way. We got three hours nice sailing across fjords and in between islands. When the wind shift came we had still an hour to Lillesand.
We used the engine and moored in the guest harbour just before noon. Planned initially to stay for a day or two because of coming bad weather.
But after lunch and a long walk we decided to move out to an anchorage instead. Much more scenic and comfortable, except for no shore power
The price policy in Lillesand, almost full summer price, made a contribution to the decision to leave.
Just south of Lillesand, along the inlet to town, we found a close to perfect anchorage. Although little to narrow, we had to use our anchor buddy on the chain to minimize the scoop.
Our diesel/pump problem last weeks seems to be possible to put in our experience bank. No problem what so ever to fill the day tank with clean filtered diesel, except that the main tank soon is empty!
Annika & Björn