Week 22 28 May – 3 June 2018 Sheepscot Bay, Maine – St Andrews, Canada 208 nm
28 May Monday Sheepscot Bay – Broad Cove, Rockland 40 nm
No wind and no rain when we woke up in our protected bay. Overcastted and mist during our slow breakfast. Then we decided to pull the anchor and continue eastward. Coming outside of our three protecting rocks in the entrance to the bay, the swell became enough for us to put the centerboard down to stabilize Moon in the swell on the aft quarter. Too much swell combined with very little wind makes the sail flop when Moon roll gentle. So no sails and only motor to save our sails from wear and tear. The current was against up to one knot the whole day. Lots of lobsterpots, and we mean LOTS! Had to look forward all time not to get a line in the prop. This is really an area where you don’t motor at nighttime. In the swell and mist you see the pots only some 150 feet in front of you, and that’s when you are looking constantly forward. We are happy for the shape of Moon’s underwater hull that helps to protect the propeller and the rudder from catching lines. But when the propeller is running it will still catch everything in the water flow “through” the prop. The water is only ten C degrees so to dive and free the prop isn’t very fun, if even possible without heavy equipment.
Maine is really a lookalike to our Swedish archipelago. The rocks and clean barren islands offshore and the more wooded islands further in could as well have been back home! Unfortunately there is another thing that reminds us of home; mosquitoes! Luckily it is probably still a bit chilly for them to come in thousands, but we are prepared.
Used the head sails for half an hour. The rest of the day was only engine in cold mist.
Anchored in Broad Cove before five and had a well needed warm shower before dinner.
29 May Wednesday Broad Cove – Rockland 2 nm
Sunshine and no wind in our cove when we woke up and could enjoy breakfast in cockpit, already warm in spite the early morning. The reason for this anchoring was a delivery for us to the chandler in town supposedly arriving today. We had planned to call them before pulling the anchor, but AT&T have obviously decided that Rockland is not important because we got no signal. Even later in town we had no cell phone cover.
Pulled the anchor and motored in to the town jetty where you can stay two hours for free. Harbor office had free internet and Annika used the two hours to do get all our e-mail in and out. Then we moved out in the mooring field and anchored. Took the dinghy in to the dock and walked the town. Our ordered grease for the MAX-prop had arrived and we continued to the grocery store in the sunshine. The summer obviously came to Maine the 29th of May! Not so warm out on the water, but in town it was short trousers and T-shirt in 28 C. On our route to the food store we found a store that sold car items and they even had oil for diesel engines. We bought three gallons to be prepared for our second next oil exchange.
Back in Moon with our findings we had a rest in the cockpit before we drove back in to town to have a lobster meal at the local eatery overlooking the waterfront. Being in Maine you just have to try their lobster!
We ended our Rockland tour with another trip to the grocery store to get what we couldn’t carry first time. Among other items we bought a live lobster to be cooked according to Annikas recipe with dill seeds and salt.
Back in Moon we stored the outboard and secured the dinghy on deck to shorten our starting time tomorrow.
30 May Wednesday Rockland – Somes Harbor, Mt Desert Island 46 nm
The sun was already high up in the clear sky when we woke at six. Having breakfast in cockpit an hour later we could notice that the forecast was spot on, talking about being a bit chillier today. Pulled the anchor and drove to the fuel dock, the only one in town this early in the season.
We are far from empty, but diesel in Canada is more expensive we are told, so it’s more a top up. But we managed to fill 67 gallon, consumed since Beaufort in North Carolina where we paid almost the same price, 3,15/gallon.
Although we still have more than hundred miles to the border, the price in US closer to Canada is much higher we have seen on the internet. With all our tanks filled, water and diesel, we continued our northeasterly route towards Canada. Still no wind and we motored across to the islands together with a ferry.
Through the first group of islands we followed a marked fairway and then we were out on the next open water. There we could use the headsails together with the engine.
Next group of islands were very interesting. In Sweden all quarries have been shut down for more than fifty years, but here it was still big business. Full activity up in the big quarry and stone dust blew out to sea
This landscape is more and more like the Swedish archipelago, even if the fjords are wider. But everything is bigger in US! Today we even found the red-ish granite we have in middle of Bohuslän!
During the afternoon the shore lines became grayer and with less smooth rocks.
We anchored far up in the central inlet of Mt Desert Island among lots of moorings – as usual.
Hope to be able to walk ashore tomorrow.
Lobster for dinner.
31 May Thursday Somes Harbor – Mt Desert Island 5 nm
We had a bright sun high in the sky already at seven o’clock. During breakfast we studied the forecast and decided to stay on anchor and take a long walk on the island. The forecast predict northerly strong wind on Saturday and we want to be in St Andrews on Tuesday latest. To manage that we have to come around the north end of the Canadian island Campobello before the strong wind begins on Saturday. We have little more than eighty miles to cover to get there, and with the amount of daylight we have now it should be doable, even if we took a walk today.
Dinghy ashore with a backpack full of cameras, water and a lunch sandwich. Walked a long tour into the island among several lakes. Finally we sat down and had our sandwich looking at a seal chasing fish in front of a fish ladder.
Back in Moon the aft deck became a barber shop in the sunny and windy weather. After a shower we weigh anchor and motored the five miles out of the inlet where we anchored to save distance and time tomorrow, because we would have countercurrent out of the inlet tomorrow morning.
Annika used the “free electricity” while we motored to cook dinner. At the entrance, behind some islands, we anchored close to shore to get protection from the afternoon strong breeze.
Dinner was served shortly after and we had a quiet evening.
1 June Friday Mt Desert Island – Quoddy narrows, at the border to Canada 71 nm
Woke up early as planned after a night when Björn almost had not slept at all due to all mosquito bites from the walk yesterday. It’s odd how we react. Back home Annika gets big red results of mosquitoes and here almost nothing, while Björn is the opposite. Nothing, almost, back home and here almost as an allergic reaction. Enough about mosquitoes!
When we were fully awake we speeded up to get going while the current still was running out to sea.
Out on the mirror like water we used the artificial wind we made motoring and hoisted the main. Much easier then turn into wind when the battens get tangled in the Lazy Jacks most of the time. We motored and made water for two hours before the wind came up enough for good sailing. Made full speed with the wind 110 degrees over the boat. Even the current was favorable. Moon made seven to eight knots through water until noon, and with current added our progress was up to nine knots.
After lunch the wind turned south and decreased. In spite we pooled out the Yankee, the speed went down to six knots. The fog came from nowhere and the wind decreased even more. The engine had to be engaged and now we had to keep a sharp outlook for the lobster pots in the fog.
We have had different scenarios with the floats today. Early morning we were motoring straight into the sun, making it almost impossible to see the floats until they where only meters in front of Moon. Many quick maneuvers were called for to say the least!
With the engine shutdown and sailing into the sun we could forget about the floats. Moons underwater body is well designed to prevent us catching lines when sailing, having a continues bottom all the way back to under the rudder.
We sailed across many lines between the two floats to one cage and the only thing that happened was that we sometimes could see the “pickup buoy” move towards Moon when the keel pushed the line downwards.
Having the propeller running in the same situation is probably always a disaster!
The second time we had fog today we could sail and then only concentrate on other obstacles in the fog. Suddenly we saw a breaking wave on the same spot all the time. Of course it was something else, Ice?? No, coming closer it was a dead whale floating belly up. We have to wait until Labrador to have risk of ice.
The last fifteen miles we got countercurrent. The tide is up to seven meters approaching Bay of Fundy and the current is because of that quite something. Our good progress earlier today was now exchanged to the opposite. With up to three knots against we were very slow. We experienced over falls due to wind against current and that was extra special as we only had 150 meters viability in the fog.
Shortly before five o’clock we saw the green marker on the radar at the bay we had chosen to anchor. When we had turned into the bay the visibility got a little bit better and we could almost see the rocks on our port side. Motored further in to get out of the swell and finally put the hook down just outside the fairway. The visibility was less then tree hundred meters so extra anchor light was called for. The top light and the light at the end of the boom of course, but we thought we should also use one of our flashing blue light we used in Malaysia, where nothing that wasn’t flashing was good enough. With these three lights and the AIS on we didn’t feel like a sitting duck in the fog waiting for something to hit us.
Very cold and windy on deck, but when everything was done on deck it was nice and cozy downstairs with the furnace already “humming”. The anchorage is some hundred meters south of the Canadian border and further into the bay there is a bridge between Canada and US. Unfortunately the bridge is a little bit too low for us and because of that we have to make detour around Campobello Island, the island northeast of us, and then turn back into US waters.
Hopefully the wind and tide will be ok tomorrow morning.
2 June Saturday Quoddy narrows – Hersey Point, west of Eastport, the eastern most village in US 24 nm
The fog was a little bit higher above the water when we woke up. There was no wind and we pulled the anchor and motored out of the bay. Out at sea the fog came all the way down to the water and we had even less visibility than yesterday. Today we had the odd situation that our next anchorage was less than seven miles away, but because of the low bridge we had to make more than twenty miles to get around the island. We actually saw the bridge again when we passed Eastport.
The trip around the island in dense fog offshore and light wind from behind and two knots current against was again exciting, looking after all floats. Today we even had three lobster boats on the radar. Two was close enough that we could see them in the fog.
We were anxious to get around the lighthouse on the north cape of the island before the predicted north westerly gale starts. That was the reason for us to leave the anchorage that early, in spite the current was against until nine. But better have current against on flat water than strong head winds against following current.
Coming up to the lighthouse, the fog became little less dense and we could almost see the tower, not only on radar and hear the loud fog horn. Around the cape, having turned almost 180 degrees into the islands, the fog almost disappeared and we were shown a majestic landscape with shores that had six meters tidal range now at low water. We were just in time for the current to change direction and we got following current all the way to our anchorage. Passing Eastport and the sound to Canada and St Andrews we had very turbulent water. Now with the wind from north, increasing all the time we could sail and were happy that we choose to start that early to reach the cape before the wind from north picked up. The forecast was spot on!
Reaching our bay we choose to anchor in, we had a few miles to windward and tacking was not to think about in the narrow bay. Furled the sails and motored up to the head of the bay where we anchored at lunch time.
We intend to stay here and wait for the wind to ease and on Monday continue to St Andrews and clear customs into Canada.
Quiet and restful afternoon in our protected bay.
3 June Sunday Hersey Point – St Andrews, Canada 20 nm
When we woke up the wind was already almost gone.
We decided to go to St Andrew already today. Sent an e-mail to John and checked if our new plan was ok. Called Customs Canada and arranged for a clearance procedure at the town wharf at one o’clock.
Had breakfast and then pulled the anchor to follow the tide down to Eastport and then, if we have done our homework correct, following current through the narrows and across the fjord up to St Andrews.
We even got some help from the cutter towards to Eastport. Passing Eastport it was more or less slack water and coming into the narrows we got two knots following current. Out on the big fjord the current was almost nothing, especially now at nip and shortly after slack.
Five minutes past one o’clock we tied to the wharf and two customs officials were waiting for us.
Very nice guys and less than half an hour later we had our passports stamped and could bring down our quarantine flag. Harbour master was on the wharf and allowed us to stay on the wharf over night for the same price as for a mooring, being this early in the tourist season.
After all these procedures to get settled in Canada, Cheryl and John took us to lunch in town. Lots of talk about their new lives as landlubbers, having sold their big Oyster after eleven years of circum navigation.
Back on the wharf we put our outboard into the boot of their car. John had promised to get it to service nearby tomorrow and we will hopefully get it back before the weekend.
When John and Cheryl had left for their house, we took a walk around the town and made some findings in the grocery store on the way back to Moon. Tomorrow we will move up the coast, close to their house and tie up to a mooring that normally is used by a big lobster boat.
We had some chop along the wharf late afternoon, but the wind and the waves eased when the sun came down and we got a quiet evening.
Annika & Björn