By now we have been sailing in warm climate closer to the equator for several months, but this log starts with some maintenance work in New Zealand, Whangarei, before take of in 14 of June 2010.

May 2010 – June 14th
A month of work with overhaul of the engine, autopilot and a lot of other postponed items. A new stainless 80 m chain was installed in the bow locker and the old chain moved to the aft chain locker. Together with the chain came a stainless Manson Supreme. Our experience from our specially made stainless Delta has been very good, but in very weak mud it only ploughs along. Manson Supreme should work even on soft bottoms. After two month the holding has been excellent, but the setting needs more care than our old Delta. Every four times we have had to anchor twice. We have then changed back to the Delta on the bow to make it clear if it’s the anchor or the technique that differ from our previous experiences. Future will tell.

Monday 14 a weather window opened for Fiji, even if a low at New Caledonia was a little difficult to predict. The weather had been quite bad for a time and a lot of boats that’s been waiting where now leaving. In total there were more than ten boats heading north at the same day. Already the second day out we got strong headwinds. One boat turned back and we turned northwest to minimize the effect of the wind and to get west of the Low.
When the low had passed, waves eased and wind turned east, we had only 350nm left to Numea in New Caledonia. But going to Fiji from NC against the current and prevailing wind was not something to look forward to. The decision was to turn 90 degrees towards Fiji more than 650nm to the northeast.
We got four nice final days of sailing of our total ten days from NZ to Fiji. Just in time when our fresh food was all eaten, we got a nice Mahi-Mahi, three days out of Fiji.
The long detour west of the low was the main reason for the “slow” passage.
We checked in to Fiji in Lautoka on the 25 and two days later we anchored in Musket Cove, ready for the birthday party that was going to take place on June 30. Sharron from Whangarei had decided to spend her 40 berthday among friends in Fiji. Seven Swedish boats gathered to join the party!
After the party we left for Lautoka to get clearance for Savusavu via the Yasawas.
From Lautoka we sailed up to Yasawa and the first afternoon we past the island Waya where the stranded remaining of Moonduster still was on the beach since the stranding in December 2009. We have met the boat and owner several times in Tonga and NZ. To see a wreck and knowing the story gets to you in another way than if it had been an anonymous one!
We continued and anchored for the night in the north bay of Waya, just to continue the next day to the northern cove of Naviti. There we got an Australian boat anchored well out of us. We had seen the boat the day before, anchored in the northeast bay of Waya. Björn took the dingy over to ask if it really was Moonduster on the beach. Yes they had had a close look at the stern, and could confirm that the name of the wreck was Moonduster and that nothing much was remaining of the former wooden Admiral Cup Racer.
Later we had a sundowner with Jessica and Peter in their Sydney registered Quest II. It was great fun to discover that they had seen Lindisfarne in Sydney, where Jessica had a flat close to our anchorage in Blackwattle. It was of course our anchor sail they remembered! A nice couple that we where to meet several times the coming months.
Next stop was Blue Lagoon, famous from several movies. Quest came not long after we had put down two anchors. We did a Bahamian anchoring because of the narrow gap in the reef. Just before sunset Panaceac came, a Swedish yacht that we first met in Whangarei.
After a few nice days of snorkelling and other social activities with these two crews we left for Sawa-I-Lau and the famous underwater cave.
Sawa-I-Lau is a spectacular little island made out of old coral, reminded us very much of the rock in Nuie. There is at least one big cave, where it is possible to swim underwater into another locked “hall”. Interesting, but of course it’s a tourist magnet and a lot of cruise ships comes here every week. It’s important to time your visit!
We visited the village on the nearby island Vawa together with Panacea and Quest II.
First of all when you come to an island you are supposed to visit the chief and bring him a sevusevu (a gift of kava) and then you are accepted as a guest. The village school was very big and had children from the surrounding villages. Seven classes plus kindergarten. After the seventh year the youngsters had to continue school on the mainland, Vitu Levu.

Now it was time for Vanua Levu, but more then 40nm against the wind and current was not possible in these waters crowded with reefs. We could not find a way to reach Vanua Levu in one “daylight”. On top of that the upper part of the key in the windlass broke, making it quite difficult to get the anchor up.
We decided to solve both issues by sailing south to, first Blue Lagoon, and the next day to Musket Cove where got a mooring just at sunset.
Sailing in Fiji water, we have been told, is very hazardous because many uncharted reefs, reefs in wrong places and missing beacons. After having been sailing in Fiji for more than two month we can diminish those rumours. First of all, most reefs are well charted and missing beacons is mainly a problem for boats without GPS. By using a navigation program and other boats tracks you can avoid having problem with the few misplaced reefs. But arriving to an anchorage in darkness is not recommended, unless there are mooring buoys provided. We have also with great success used the method of buoys on the chain when anchoring among corals. We have so far avoided getting snagged and minimised the damage on the corals. .
In Musket Cove we met Sharron and her family, and they where about to fly back to NZ.
We sailed with the entire family onboard Lindisfarne to Denerau where they got a taxi to the airport. After leaving the Petersson family, we visited a mechanical workshop and had a new key for the windlass made. It fitted perfect after some sanding with an emery paper. So now the windlass is back in business. We then took the bus in to Nadi to shop and look for a new Pentax underwater camera. The old one got swamped in Blue Lagoon. No such Pentax in Fiji! Other ways to get a camera to Fiji had to be investigated.
We left Denerau fiveish and anchored just of the beach, to go to Vuda Marina next morning to meet Claes on Tarita. His family arriving from Sweden within a week and could eventually bring a Pentax…
Tarita was just launched and was mooring when we arrived. We spent only one night in the hot and dusty marina, not used to have neighbours almost in the cockpit. But we managed to meet Tarita, Freya and Albertina having both a sun downer and dinner at the club bar.
We left the marina, only to anchor behind a reef closer to Denerau and the next day we anchored in Denerau harbour. No neighbours in the cockpit and nice breeze. Quest II and Panacea came later that afternoon. We had dinner ashore together with them, and the next day we planned to have a car with a driver to show us part of the inland. Bertil, on Panacea, arranged a car, but next morning the driver didn’t agree either on the price or the itinerary. Shorter trip and more money! We left the car and rented one in Nadi without driver. This car was smaller and not four wheel driven, something that could have come handy on the rugged “roads” up in the mountain.
We managed, but just, to drive the scenic route all the way over the mountain. Lots of nice sceneries and a walk at Sigatoka sand dunes, but the driver who didn’t want to take us the whole way was right! The road was not meant for “normal” cars and it was a very long trip. We arrived back in Denerau very late in the evening.
All four of us went by the car back to Nadi the next day to hand back the car and do some provisioning. Panacea was soon to leave for Vanuatu and needed to stock up. We were not in great need of supplies and soon we were back in Lindisfarne. The plan was now to once again sail to Vuda to see if Claes family managed to bring the little Pentax. There was also a need of propane and diesel, which are easy to get in Vuda.
No camera, but two nice evenings together with the whole family. Last night Panacea and Freya joined the party. The next day we left for Lautoka to stock up and adjust our zarpe for Savusavu. We where by now one month later than ETA (estimated time of arrival) Savusavu! Quest where anchored in Lautoka harbour and had already got their zarpe for Savusavu and done all their shopping.
We decided to live with our old zarpe and after a taxi ride from town we where ready to leave. We could see Quest some miles to the north and a few hours later we found them anchored in a cove north of Nacilau Point which we already had choose as our night anchorage. We where both on route to Savusavu, but we where planning to do a detour around the north coast of Vanua Levu which makes the tour more than double as Savusavu is in the middle of the south coast.

August
Next morning we continued along the north coast of Vitu Levu in light breeze for three hours until we met strong katabatic headwinds and anchored in Vitia, having done only 17 nm. At low tide we had a walk ashore and decided that we would have an early start next morning to avoid the sun effect added to the strong headwinds around the North Cape.
We had only done a few miles when the wind got stronger, 26kn, but we decided to tack 40nm to Volivoli. There we found a protected anchorage, after having rejected three coves due to violent katabatic winds. This turned out to be the last anchorage together with Jessica and Peter.
We where now east enough on Vitu Levu to get an open reach over Bligh Water to the westcoast of Vanua Levu. Early next morning we left Quest and Vitu Levu and sailed a pretty rough 50 nm passage to Vanua Levu, rounded the short west coast and anchored just before sunset east of Nasua. The anchorage was only a “hole” in the reef with “unprotected” water all around. God holding and not much tide made the anchorage quite comfortable in spite it looked like we where anchored in open water.
The north coast has prevailing easterly wind, much lighter compared with the south coast and Bligh Waters. It was now the second of August and we tacked along in light breeze. Plentiful of reefs, small and greater all around, but in opposite to Fiji west coast, the beacon where still existing here even if they where close to destruction by corrosion. We had much help of other boats tracks (ptf.-files), which we use in Maxsea. It’s an excellent aid when judging the exact position of reefs.
Late afternoon and it had become vital to choose a safe anchorage. We did not want to spend another night out in “open water” and was looking for a more closed anchorage. Between the little island Nukubati and the main island we found our protected anchorage. There is a small resort on the island and we took the dinghy ashore for a beer. Some resorts are not amused having yachties ashore, but here we where guided to the owner Jenny who sat down together with us and told the Nukubati resort story. She was borned not far away on the main island and bought the island twenty years ago. The resort has 7 Bures with accommodation for total 10-16 guests. The resort is practically self-sufficient on electricity and water. They grow their own vegetables and fruits.
Just before sundown a girl came with champagne and some cheese. What’s this we asked Jenny? “It’s what every guest get at sundown her on Nukubati” she sad as it was the most naturally thing in the world that even we got champagne! You know when you are on a five star resort!!
Most of the conversation went on about Jennys idea of echo friendly systems. Today it pays off, but fifteen years ago the agencies could not spell the word ecotourism. One thing lead to another and Annika told her about our echo friendly yogurt culture. Jenny was thrilled about it and it was soon decided that Annika should held a “lecture” in the kitchen the next morning. Before dinner time we called the night, paid the beer (the champagne was on the house!) and took the dinghy back to Lindisfarne.
Next morning after breakfast Annika performed the yogurt show in the kitchen. Yes it was really a show. These Fiji girls giggle and laugh at just everything, so there where much of that during the “performance”. Then the kefir/yougert was put to rest to the next day.
After that it was high time for the girls to start prepare lunch, a lunch that Jenny without hesitate invited us to join. To be able to do the whole yogurt procedure, Jenny had already invited us to next day celebration dinner and show.
We dinghied back to Lindisfarne after lunch to have a swim and to host those of the employees that wanted to have a closer look at the boat. Talk about giggle when especially the girls looked inside the boat!
The next day Jenny told us that they were surprised that we could live on such a small area! It’s often hard for us to understand what goes on in the mind of people from other cultures.
This was the exiting day of the celebration dinner and of course the result of the yogurt. The yogurt came out almost perfect, a little more time and a bit warmer and it will be ok.
Jenny invited us for lunch, but we thought that we had been treated almost too well, especially thinking about this evenings dinner.
The celebration dinner was a great buffet where a lot had been cocked, folded in leaves in an earth oven. After dinner and birthday cake, there was a song and dance show, performed by the staff. It was a very nice and funny show. It all ended up with everybody, including the guests, sitting on straw mats, drinking kava.
Friday morning was farewell time for us and some of the guests. We made a short visit ashore to give Jenny photos and the documentation about Kefir. Jenny took us to the kitchen garden and we got a lot of vegetables and fruit.
It’s difficult to imagine a more friendly and generous treat! We have sure got another aspect on five star resorts…
If you are looking for a nice resort out of the normal beaten track, Nukubati Resort is a very good choice!
Finally we heave up the anchor and sailed east after three very pleasant days.
We found a well protected anchorage east of Labasa, completely enclosed by mangrove. The Pilot book told us that the area was populated mainly by Indies, and tuning in different radio station it was quite obvious. We did not understand any of the dialects that were used.
Next morning, Saturday, we left early to be able to sail around the northeast cape during Sunday when the wind was predicted to be north of east. We tacked along the north coast inside the reef until the gap in the reef was to narrow for tacking. After a few miles motoring we came to a passage where boats before us had gone out of the reef for some miles. We thought we could find a passage, although the chart showed nothing of the kind. The tide was rising and half way through the reef it was to shallow. We anchored for a quick lunch, waiting for some more water. We managed to come through, but we certainly didn’t gain any time compared with an outer reef passage.
Three miles later it was time to finally leave the protected area and sail outside the reef the remaining miles to the East Cape. There where only one rolly place to anchor before the cape, so we decided to stay inside the reef overnight. Three guys came in a dingy and sold a nice lobster for dinner shortly after we anchored.
The next morning when we met the swell outside the reef, our decision last night was justified! We got three lousy hours with the swell on the bow and the wind an almost close reach. We had to add the force from the engine. If not we had only been travelled up and down in the steep swell because of the following current. With back stay and running backstay firmly tightened we “sailed” 7 kn SOG. Unfortunately the reef continued some miles east of the cape, and that was really a test of our patience!
Talk about relief when we could turn south, easy the sheets and turn of the engine. The rest of the day we had an open reach all the way south along Vanua Levu’s east coats.
Between Rabi and Vanua Levu we had strong following current and just before dusk, we anchored in Naqaigai Creek a virtual cyclone hole, completely landlocked in the mangrove and tall trees.
Monday 9, we had an early start to be able to get around the southeast cape before the south easterly wind picked up. It turned out that we hadn’t had to be that early, because there was no wind at all until we where several miles on route to Savusavu along Vanua Levu’s south coast. We motored inside Rainbow reef with its narrow passages which thanks to no wind was smooth and easy. Well out of the reef the southeast wind came and we could sail downwind with all our sail the remaining 30 nm to Savusavu. After a few miles with full speed downwind, we saw a sailboat on our port side looking like they where aiming for Savusavu too. We hoped to meet the Swedish sailing boat Bakbrus in Savusavu. We knew they had arrived from Tonga and called them on VHF. They answered instantly and sure it was the boat ahead of us. Tanks to our full downwind sail configuration we where half an hour ahead of them into Savusavu, where we got a mooring at Copra Shed marina.
In the river where also Quest II and a lot of those who left New Zealand at the same time as we did. Lots of fun reunions!
We had no problem with the Customs and our extremely late arrival. We don’t know if they even took any notice of the missing month!
We started the afternoon in Bakbrus, but had sundowner and dinner in Quest, mainly because Jessica and Peter where eventually to leave for Suva the next day.
They had got a big coral trout from another boat, which they already had had two meals of. Now Jessica made a delicious pasta dish with the final part of the Trout.
Next day we where a little “hang over”, but we blamed three days of intense sailing and the previous late evening with not so little wine. We felt quite ok in the afternoon and had dinner in Bakbrus.
The next morning we discovered that Quest where still moored in the river. Later Jessica and Peter came by in their dingy after having consulted the hospital! Together they showed all known symptoms from Ciguatera poisoning! They where now worried that we got it too. Yes, Annika felt itching in hands and feet, but nothing compared with their reaction. Ciguatera is a bacterium that lives on coral, and coral eating fish get it. A nerve poison is then developed in the fish. The big fishes eat the smaller ones and the poison is enriched making the bigger more poisonous, because it never goes back. The only safe recipe is- Don’t eat reef fish.

We had our so far most expensive beer in Fiji at Coustau resort south of Savusavu. We didn’t even ask about the price for dinner.
We left Savusavu together with Bakbrus and anchored in the reef of Namena Island. Steep sloping bottom made us use two anchors the Bahemian way, and then Bakbrus rafted onto Lindisfarne. The next day the crew of Bakbrus went to dive on the reef. They left and we sailed to Makoai after a little more work than normal with retrieving our anchors. But with two windlasses it’s done relatively easy.
We had promised Bakbrus to check the new anchorage carefully, so they could arrive late after their diving. The pass into the reef was not a problem thanks to the tracks in Maxsea from other boats, once again a wonderful aid among reefs.
Makogai has a research project for reinstalling big clams in places were they are gone due to intense harvesting.
We where together with Bakbrus invited for dinner to one of the families living at the research plant. Guess what, reef fish! but small once are safer. Polite as we are we eat with good appetite…
The next day there was a dance performance for a small cruise ship and the village invited us to join. We recognised some of the dances from Nukubati, but some was different. The children took a great part in the performance and where soon to learn.
After three days at Makogai we left for Suva, leaving Bakbrus behind who where heading for Latoka and clear Fiji for Vanuatu. A lovely open reach to just north of Ovalau, where the wind changed and we had to tack four hours inside the reef down to west of Ovalau where we anchored just before dusk at Cagalai Island.
On Friday 20 was the final part of the trip to Suva. There was a possibility to tack inside the reef half way, but we choose the outer way, thinking it was possible for a close reach to the south west. But it became a hassle. We had to support the speed with the engine to be able to clear the reef and to overcome the confused sea and current. Four hours of fatigue sailing before we could ease the sheets and sail on a broad reach the remaining 20 miles to Suva. We entered the harbour and anchored outside Suva Yacht club at dusk quite relived to have done our upwind sailing for the next three weeks.
In Suva we got a new zarpe for Lautoka after visiting the Customs three times! They where out on Asien fishing boats all day… But finally we got it. But it s quite time-consuming and it feels unnecessary. I mean, we are since more than two month in the country and are sailing between islands and anchorage regardless of paperwork. But between Suva- Lautoka – Savusavu (and eventually some other cities?) suddenly you need a zarpe. Most countries are past that national administration. Hopefully it will spread around to those who still do national paperwork.
Royal Suva Yacht club doesn’t feel very royal. The showers are a joke and the pontoons are miserable. But the beer is cheep and healthy!
We finally found the provincial office for the Lau-group. But still it was a hassle to live up to their requirements for visiting some of the islands in the group. We decided it was too much, and on top of that it is minimum 100 nm to windward and our time in Fiji was running short. They really don’t seem to want to have visitors!
Suva is a nice big city, but to clear Customs and Immigration it’s the wrong place. It’s much simpler and faster in Savusavu or even in Lautoka. The competition with the many commercial ships is one of the reasons and when you have to wait on your boat for the officials without any schedule it’s hopeless…
Suva had a rich market with reasonable prices. Compared with Savusavu most things where 20 -50% cheaper! Even vegetable that was cultivated on Vanua Levu was more expensive in Savusavu.
After three days in Suva we left for Bega, 20 nm to south west, and anchored in the cove on the west coast. We got a quiet, calm night with lots of rain. It’s nice to awake and have a clean boat. Even if we try to use the dew before the sun heats up the boat, a good rain is very useful now and then. Before noon we ”drifted” west inside the reef to the little island Yanuca, where we anchored for the night on the leeward side. Lot’s of coral so we had to buoy the chain to avoid getting snagged. Nice snorkelling but some swell during the night. Thursday came with no wind at all. We had to produce some water anyhow so we motored west along the south coast of Vitu Levu knowing that the wind normally picks up around 10. There where 50 miles to go before we could anchor at Robinson Crusoe resort. When we reach the reef entrance we had 25 kn tailwind and an incredible surf. We anchored just before dusk (again!) in four meter over sand. The conditions on the anchorage are somewhat special. There is a current in or out of the reef depending on the tide at all time, so for once we didn’t need our anchor sail. (or better, couldn’t use it!) .
Robinson Crusoe is a nice, simple backpacker resort. Cheap food but a bit expensive beer compared with our standard price in Musket Cove and Denerau. The next day we had only 20 miles to Musket Cove, but in moderate wind it took some time. We moored to the innermost buoy in the early afternoon. We learned that Bakbrus had cleared the country and left for Vanuatu from Musket the day before! But Quest was here on a buoy waiting for their final trip to Vunda Marina where they were to leave the boat, flying to New York for a month.
Tarita and Claes where at the pontoon, but his family had just travelled back home. Claes new crew had arrived together with our new Pentax ! It’s a W90 to replace our old Pentax that was drowned in Yasawa.
Day two in Musket where mainly devoted to web and some boat stuff. We changed position of our two main anchors. Our many reanchorings made us change back to have our old Delta on the bow, to see if it’s the bottoms in Fiji that are more difficult to use or if we have to learn a new technique to set the Manson Supreme.
Pizza dinner at the Island bar together with Tarita finalised Saturday.
Tarita sailed to Yasawa Sunday noon and we where also ready to leave, but we inherited Wifi connection from Tarita who had bought a seven days internet connection. That was of course to tempting to use, so will stay on the mooring for another two or three day before Vuda Marina and haul out.
We have to change the cutlass bearing that got burnt by means of a fishing line. But more about that in our next log.

31 August 2010
Annika & Björn
Lindisfarne

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