There aren't many people in this remote part of Patagonia, from Ushuaia to Puerto Natales. In fact, the only three houses we have seen belong to the Armada and are for the people serving the lighthouses, and this on a route of 600nm!
We can sometimes feel the history when we pass places which story we have been reading about. Most places, islands, peninsulas, sounds and so on, are often named after famous discoverer who found their way through Magellan strait and later round Cape Horn, places in Europe, Ships name...
The history of the "modern" Chile starts with the Spanish invasion in early 1600 century. The invasion went south through Venezuela, Colombia and Peru in their search for gold and other noble metal. They reached as far as south of Santiago. The inhabitants of the southern part of South America -Patagonia- , various Indian tribes, where never incorporated in the culture of the Incas. They where still, in the beginning of the 2000 century, living in their "old way".
The first passage south of South America was made 29 o January 1616 with two ships, Unity and Hoorn, in a Dutch expedition. Whether Cape Horn got its name from the ship or the home port of captain Schouten, Hoorn, is not quite clear.
Magellan strait got its name 100 years earlier after the Portuguese Ferdinand Magellan. He was sailing in these waters for Spain in 1519.
James Cook and his ship Beagle can also be found here and there in the south, but that's more than 250 years later than Magellan.
There are not many traces of the Indians today. The dominate tribes was the Yáman (or Yaghan), Ona and Alacaluf. They are all gone today, either killed or dead because of the deceases and culture the white man brought.
The name Tierra del Fuego has nothing to do with Volcanoes, it was the fire and smoke from the Indians fireplaces that the discoverer saw, and then named it "the land of fire".
The Andes Mountains dominate the southwest of Patagonia and goes all the way south onto Tierra del Fuego where mount Darwin 2430m is the highest. Most of the highest mountains are covered with glaciers, some of which goes all the way down to the sea.
Magellan strait north of Tierra del Fuego separates the South American mainland from the islands in the south. Further north their are a numerous of fjords, straits, islands, glaciers and high mountains all the way up to Puerto Montt, more than 1000nm, probably the largest archipelago in the world.
But there is always a but! The weather, it is raining more than 5m a year... The nice thing is that everything is green and not dry. The downside we don't mention.
It's also very windy, mostly from the north, and going north as we are is not very easy.
The sign of wildlife are not very many. We have seen various birds, seals, dolphins and of course Humpback whales.

Before taking off we had to stock up for a period of two mount at least. This is best done in Ushuaia if you are going north. In Puerto Natales 600nm to the north and 6 weeks later, we were able to get fuel and some fresh food.
We had to start our route by sailing 30nm east to Puerto Williams, the only port of entry in this part of Chile. It's quite a job to get a zarpe, the sailing permission, from the Armada. Every waterway from Puerto Williams to Puerto Montt that we wanted to use had to be on that paper! We solved the problem with a little help from the PC. We wrote all "thinkable" waterways in a file and put it on a memory stick. The Armada has of course computers, so it was easy to get allowance when they didn't had to write it down, just download from our memory stick!

We had been reading about the extreme weather, difficulties when anchoring, lack of sea charts, kelp and several other dangers.
Anchoring; there are many very good and well protected Caletas and they are very seldom more than 10-15nm apart. Thanks to the "Italian Pilot" we slept well all nights, in spite our future fears.
The extreme weather; yes the wind is very strong, but it's the variation in strength from one minute to the other that makes it so tricky and dangerous, not the strength it self. We solved it by sailing with relatively small sails, corresponding to the gusts, not to the average wind. This together with tacking towards a sometimes very choppy sea is the reason for not getting so great many miles per day.
Lack of sea charts or lack of surveying; normally it's very deep, and when not, the kelp that was said to be a problem is really an aid because they grow where it's shallower than 10m. Our forward looking echo sounder has also been very good, especially when going towards a glacier, when there is no sight at all through the water.
Kelp (seaweed); it's said to be something of a nightmare to bring up your anchor together with "tons" of kelp. So far the kelp have been more as an aid in our navigation than problem in connection with anchoring.
The route from Puerto Williams to Puerto Montt is as the crow flies is 850nm, but we have to follow the waterways through the Canals and that makes it close to 1600nm. By Puerto Montt the archipelago has come to an end, but the Chilean coast continues for another 1400nm to Peru.
In this log we will handle the way to Puerto Natales, 600 of the total 1600nm.

Getting things ready, stocking up, clearing out of Argentina, sailing to Puerto Williams, checking in to Chile together with sailing permission was finally done 10 of February and we could start on our North westbound route. Of course before leaving Puerto Williams, we first had to visit the World southernmost bar and Yacht club. Together with a lot of cards, flags, pennants and photos on the walls in the pub is now a photo from Antarctica with Lindisfarne tacking in front of a glacier. As a small memory of our visit...

Sailing west on the Beagle Canal, named after James Cooks ship HMS Beagle, we reached caleta Eugenio, a well protected anchorage where we spent two nights waiting for the wind to get favourable. Together with the tide, the wind makes the sea very steep and choppy, nothing to tack against. So the choices are between waiting or motoring. The latter is sometimes not very comfortable, depending on the height of the waves, not to mention the consumption of diesel supposed to last all the way to Puerto Montt, or at least to Puerto Natales.

The 14th we sailed west on Brazo Sudoeste, made a small detour on Estero Fouque to see a glacier, and reached Estero Coloane with it's glacier before it become dark. To our surprise our planned anchoring was occupied, but we found an even better place in the same Estero. This is the first and so far (9 weeks later) the only time this have happened! It's not a crowded area!

The next day we sailed north on Canal Barros Merino and back east on Brazo Noroeste to Seno Pia with its glaciers and the nice Caleta Beaulieu. Unfortunately the weather now had started to be really greyish with a lot of rain, so, in spite that we waited one extra day, we couldn't see more than the lower part of the glaciers.

Out in the rain, motoring west along Brazo Noroeste, Paso Darwin and Canal O'Brian to Caletón Silva wasn't a very exciting trip. Not much to see in the rain and fog. But we knew about the beautiful mountains up in the clouds! The only interruptions in the monotone trip were the calls on VHF from the Armada. They keep a sharp outlook (assisted by radar) and call every vessel in their vicinity. We don't answer in Spanish, even if our pour Spanish is enough to answer, because we don't understand the "stream" of Spanish coming from the other end! Every call have first been made in Spanish and then followed up in English. Two things happen when we answer in English. We understand everything they say, and they don't ask as much as in Spanish...
The weather cleared up during the afternoon, so we managed to climb up on the hillside to get some exercise and a nice view to the west over Canal Ballenero.
We stayed only one night because the wind was favourable the next. We had good wind, sometimes a little to strong, and we made more than 60nm to Caleta Brecknock over Canal Ballenero and through Canal Brecknock. This is a very spectacular anchorage, completely protected from the sea, but being very close to the Pacific it's exposed to rachas, or williwaws - extremely strong gusts coming down the mountains. This is one reason for using at least two ropes to the shore in the direction of the rachas and to tie you as close to the shore as possible to get some shelter from the wind of the surrounding trees. The other reason for the ropes is the often very steep leaning bottom. If swinging on anchor on such bottom and in a wind change, your anchor will most certainly lose its grip and you will drift away. The same technique is used in the Mediterranean with its strong night winds coming down the mountains and the rapidly deepening bottoms, but here we very often use three or four lines when the weather is really windy.

Caleta Brecknock is the last caleta before Canal Cockburn, which open to the Pacific in south west and runs north east to Canal Magdalena and further away to Strait of Magellan. So because of the exposed location, we had to wait in the rain and strong wind for four days in Caleta Brecknock.
On Thursday the 22nd we finally got the weather we where waiting for, no rain and not to strong wind from Southwest. We had a very nice sailing with tailwind all the way along Canal Cockburn to Caleta Cluedo. Only a short part of the passage, just when we where turning to Northeast, we where exposed to the heavy sea from the Pacific. Caleta Cluedo was a complete change in surroundings compared to Caleta Brecknock, in spite it was only 30nm in between. Trees and green grass with a lot's of birds, even a brownish hummingbird. We spend two days here, walking around on the hills which for the first time was not only bare stone.
From Canal Cockburn there are three Canals to Magellan, but unfortunately only one is allowed by the Armada. (Most sailors use the shortest one, Canal Acwalisnan, in spite it's forbidden) As we where aiming for some "extra" glaciers in Seno Keats and Seno Agostini, a detour of 100nm, the rules where no problem. We automatically would end up in Canal Magdalena, the allowed Canal to Magellan.
We got favourable wind and "flew" over Canal Cockburn eastbound to Canal Magdalena and anchored in Puerto King. This is not a "Port". It's a very good Caleta used by the local fishermen during heavy weather. Not very easy to walk in the surroundings, in fact almost impossible, so we where stuck in the boat, not so very unpleasant with the oil stove burning, a Danish Refleks, and a good book.
After two nights in Puerto King we sailed "around the corner" to Seno Chico and straight south into Fjord Alacaluf with two glaciers, one is told to be the most beautiful of Tierra del Fuego. We anchored in head, in front of the glaciers, one to the left reached the sea and the other two hundred meter ashore. Compared with a photo in the Pilot, about 6 years old, both glaciers reached the sea. This is what we see on most glacier, the global warming?

We took the dinghy ashore and walked up to the glacier front to get some close up photos.
Coming back to the boat we discovered that one of the williwaws had pushed the boat hard and the anchor chain was completely out of the windlass! Only the tiny rope that secures the chain was in the windlass. Although this is how it should work, it was still very scary. We normaly use a hook to secure the chain in front of the windlass, but this time we "shall only be a little while". Now we have learned that lesson, lucky without any damages, never ever leave the boat on anchor hanging only in the windlass!!!
After that little chock, we motored back to Seno Chico and Caleta Lago where we due to heavy rain spend two nights.
Wednesday the 28 came with no rain, some sun and a light breeze from behind so we took the opportunity to have a very lacy sailing trip into the next fjords, Seno Keats and then Seno Agostini to Bahia Angelito where we anchored for the night. Close to the anchorage we saw three Condors high up around the closest mountain.  This was a beautiful anchorage with high mountains as a  background,  but a little bit windy.
The weather was still on our side next morning so we continued our detour southeast with tailwind along Seno Agostini and to the glaciers in Seno Hyatt. The most spectacular was of course the one all the way to the head. We reached the front after some "ice tacking", quite similar to what we experienced in Antarctica, and got some photos of Lindisfarne in the ice close to the glacier.
We then sailed back all the way to Seno Keats and Bahia Queta, a very well protected anchorage, almost on the "normal" route to Magellan. Our detour took three days and almost 100nm.     

Our grib files predicted south west for the next three-four days, perfect wind condition for Magellan. So we rushed north in Canal Magdalena to Caleta Beubassie, to be in position if the forecast was correct.
We where actually one day ahead of the predicted westerly wind, and that proved to be right. We did a short trip against the wind, only 22nm to Caleta Hidden. Sailing with the tide and wind against is not very efficient, almost impossible to tack and very uncomfortable in the short choppy sea. So we motored slowly  only to the next Caleta.
Next morning, 5 of March, the weather had changed. Blizzard! When we woke up, but only for 15 minutes, then clear blue sky till the next squall with snow. It was very cold. The snow stayed on the wet deck and made it very slippery. But between the gusts, the weather was very nice with wind from southwest. So no time to hesitate.
We got a lovely and fast sailing with tailwind and sun, although interrupted now and then with heavy snowfall and strong wind, luckily from behind. The anchorage we had chosen was Bahia Tilly on Isla Carlos III in the middle of Paso Inglés, a part of Magellan Strait. Paso Inglés is famous for its current, which attract whales. Already far away from Isla Carlos we saw the blow from several whales. Coming closer there where a lot of Humpbacks diving in the turbulent sea. We got some good photos, but we missed the best opportunity because that whale was to close! And then of course, most of the whales are under water so it isn't that easy to get really good photos.
After this exiting experience it was almost difficult to calm down and just anchor! But we succeeded, and had a nice quiet night waiting for another predicted sunny day with good wind.
Yes, it was sunny!
And what more, just as we got the anchor secured on deck, two Humpbacks came into our anchorage! We moved slowly, almost with no motor, towards them. They are really big, getting them this close. 15m and 25ton, a lot bigger and heavier than our boat! It was very silent with almost no wind so the blow was really loud compared to the surrounding. Quite scary when the came up without us seeing them, and there was the blow behind us! Once they came up on our windward, their  breath is really smelly! We definitely prefer to have them at leeward.
Half an hour and some 100 photos later they dived out into the Paso Inglésa and we could "at last"  start our trip northwest to the final part of Magellan.
Unfortunately there was no wind at all. But compared to the normal conditions in Magellan, strong westerly and tide, we prefer no wind! The last two hours before reaching Caleta Uriarte on south side of the west entrance to Magellan, we got really good wind and almost summer temperature. 
The really good weather lasted even the next day.

Wednesday the 7 of March, we sailed north across Magellan to Canal Smyth after passing Isla Tamar, one of the most dangerous parts together with Gulfo des Penan on the whole route from Puerto Williams to Puerto Montt. But today with 20knots south-westerly and sun from a clear blue sky it couldn't be better!
We where called from the lighthouse Faro Islote Fairway at  the entrance of Canal Smyth. This was actually first time since we left the southern part close to Argentina, where we where called every day. The weather was so delightful so we just couldn't stop. We sailed 70nm before we just before sunset anchored in Bahia Mallet, an anchorage that didn't need any lines ashore. The latter are difficult in darkness.          
The surroundings in Mallet were unusually and the weather continued with no rain, so we made a long hike around the bay. We stayed two nights, we thought we had earned that after crossing Magellan.

Now the weather forecast was back to normal so before the strong northerly and rain started we made a short trip to Caleta Victoria at Paso Victoria. This Caleta was told to be favourable to the previous when strong wind from the north was expected. We stayed here for four nights, due to the weather and because we got company after two nights. The Swedish sailing boat Satumaa with Lasse and Pauli stayed two nights before they continued north and we went south east for Puerto Natales. We wanted to do the laundry, get fresh food and diesel. This is a detour of 60nm one way from the straight route to the north.
Puerto Natales lies at a great inland water, connected to the sea with two narrow passages, and of course when all this water shall up and down 2m with the tide, a strong current develops in these straights. We where lucky to reach the passage when the current was only 2knots against, and continued out into the great inland water "Golfo Almirante Montt and anchored in Bahia Easter just in sun set.
Now we got the high pressure again, with high temperature (15 degrees!), no wind and clear blue sky. After a short motoring to Puerto Natales, we soon walked along among other people for the first time in five weeks!
Puerto Natales don't have a good anchorage or harbour. Thanks to the high pressure we could moor on the outside of a big fishing vessel and get diesel directly from a truck at the dock.   
We where assisted by Jorge, a Chilean who had lived in Poland and spoke excellent English. He was now tired of the stress in Europe, and had moved back to Chile and bought a fishing boat.
Thanks to him everything was done within 24 hours. We moored 11 o'clock and left the mooring at lunchtime the next day. We got everything we wanted including 15kg laundry and 350l diesel.

We have now passed Tierra del Fuego with its fjords and islands, Magellan straight with all its danger and seen a lot of glaciers on a route that hasn't always pointed north. On the contrary, it has been pointing in all directions of the compass, in spite we have been heading north as the main direction all the time. The prevailing northerly wind and the short, steep choppy sea make the progress very slow. Going south in this archipelago is quite another thing! Wintertime is said to be less strong northerly and dryer. We have had some nice sunny days, but in total it has been raining heavily almost 50% of the time, one time for more than 48 hours without interruption! (It rains 5m/year) Of course it is easy to understand that we don't enjoy the heavy rain, but after the rain comes the sun! at least sometimes, and then the scenery pays back.
We have now made 600 and there are only 1000nm left to Puerto Montt!      
      
14 March 2007
Annika & Björn
S/Y Lindisfarne

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